Dakar, Senegal

March 28, 2008

Dakar, located on the Cape Verde Peninsula, is the capital of Senegal and the westernmost African city. Dakar is actually called a commune, one of the 67 communes in Senegal created by the French colonial administration in 1887. Today the commune is ruled by a democratically elected municipal council and a mayor elected b that council. The area around Dakar was settled at least by the 15th century and the Portuguese, already on the island of Goree, began to use it as a base for the export of slaves. Goree was captured by the United Netherlands in 1588, and the island switched between the two countries several times before falling to the British in 1664 and then the French in 1677. Famous for its slave trade, the French abolished it in 1794. Napoleon re-established it in 1802, where it remained in place until permanently abolished in 1815. Illegal slave trade continued until 1848 when the French promoted peanut cultivation as an economic replacement. Dakar was considered one of the major cities of the French Empire and trading firms established offices, mills, breweries, refineries, and canneries. As a port with a strategic location and rail facilities, France maintained an unusually important naval base in the harbor. Dakar has become a major financial center, with more than a dozen national and regional banks, international organizations, and research centers. France still maintains an air force base at Yoff and the French fleet is serviced in Dakar’s port. The Fort D’Estress on Goree Island, where slaves were held, auctioned, and shipped from has been transformed into a museum.

It was on the Isle of Goree that I spent my morning. Although tiny, Isle de Goree, just a 20-minute ferry ride from the capital, might otherwise be just a pretty place, it disturbing history earns it a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Mid-15th century Portuguese explores first landed on the island and set up a fortress. Battles for the island characterized the 19th century but French governors ultimately won. You can’t help but being struck by the island’s quiet beauty—colorful bougainvillea drapes over old buildings, and the narrow alleyways are quiet. As we approached, I kept wishing I had my watercolors with me...such classic simple buildings in soft earthy ochres, terra cottas, and deep greens all silhouetted in shadows of tall palm trees, it looked like an expensive five-star resort might be awaiting us. However as the Maison des Esclaves (Slave house) came into view, that peaceful daydream was shattered. The structure is typical of the era. Human “cargo” was stored below and the merchant family lived in the upper floor. Up to 200 people were kept in small cells....many died. Families were split apart and young girls were raped. We were all moved as we stood in the door of “no return”...the door where some 20 million slaves were herded onto the ships to sail away to life of hardship and no return. The nearby Historical Museum showcased these unhumanly trade practices. It was a fascinating morning spent looking back to a time of sadness.


The afternoon was spent touring the capital city of Dakar. A busy and bustling place, the city is home to some 3 million people....one person more colorful than the next. I will always remember seeing men and women adorned in long flowing robes....color on color...headdresses piled high in huge “knots”....so picturesque.

We visited the very pristine Presidential Palace complete with the “red guard”...tall handsome men whose very dark blue-black skin colored only highlighted their large red berets. From there we rode through streets crowded with every manner of small stalls selling everything from pots and pans to clothes and tires....humanity upon humanity....so dense...so colorful.

We stopped for a visit to a small studio where we watched very skilled artist create amazing paintings...not of my taste, but amazing nonetheless.....paintings using over 24 various colors of natural sand. These skilled artists would “paint” in glue and then seemingly haphazardly sprinkle sand over the wet glue. After a few minutes they would bang the wooden board against the table revealing the most intricate design.

Our tour continued as we drove along the coast-line to see the so-called “five star” hotels where our guide told us that the French love to holiday....I am not convinced! We made a stop at the western most point of Africa....it was funny, I couldn’t help but be reminded of doing something similar when I went to Key West and visited the southern most point of the Continental United States.

So, although a long and tiring day,...made even longer and more tiring because of an intense sand storm that almost blinded and choked us, I was impressed with the life of the Senegalese....they appear to be a hard-working industrious people who live in a most colorful...if poor....part of the world!