Banjul, The Gambia

March 29, 2008

Banjul was formerly known as Bathurst, after Henry Bathurst, the secretary of the British Colonial Office. A trading post and base for British attempts at suppressing slave trade in the early 19th century, it became Banjul in 1973. It is the capital of The Gambia, officially The Republic of The Gambia, the smallest country on the African continental mainland.

My day was a bit disappointing. I decided to take a “river cruise” up the Gambia river to visit the Island of Juffureh home of the slave trading station of Albreda...home of Kunta Kinteh, made famous by Alex Haley in Roots. I was expecting an experience along a small and quaint river where I would see small “African” villages along the coast and enjoy a relaxing day....wrong! The Gambia River is a very very wide river. In fact once we left the dock we could just as well been on the open ocean. There was nothing...nothing!....to see....and to make matters worse, the skies were very overcast and “heavy”...dusty?....cloudy and foggy. It was difficult to see the difference in the water and the sky....almost like being in a “whiteout” in snow country. So here I was....on a small tug-like boat for three hours...count ‘em...three hours!...in this whiteness. Granted, the crew of the boat was most friendly....they served a delicious and plentiful lunch and couldn’t have been more pleasant and helpful...but it was a long and boring ride.

Once we arrived on the island, we had a hot and difficult fifteen minute trod along a sandy path lined with chanting children.....”Welcome, Welcome, and Welcome” they chanted and clapped with small tins placed in front for our “donations”. We were surrounded by “security” guards to keep the small kids from bombarding us, begging. It was a bit overwhelming. I must admit, however that I will always remember this one enterprising child...about 6 or 7, this cute boy had covered himself with green leaves....like a bushman....and did a charming dance in his camouflage begging for our money. Once we passed his group and ventured along the path to be surrounded by another such group, you could see the young boy and his entourage running ahead to re-establish a post as though they were “new” and different. They even had a different “pot” to accept our donations.

Eventually we made our way to the local museum....the Smithsonian it wasn’t! A few photographs and displays....a couple of iron chains...and some sad displays....all inside a small and airless and dark space....hot hot hot! Not a pleasant experience!

We made our way to a small hut where Alex Haley’s cousin awaited us. We were told the story of Kunta Kinteh as this old lady tried to sell us a small printed book...for $20.00! or a certificate! ($5.00) to say we had been to visit her! Such a set-up....and a bit embarrassing for her...and no doubt, for Alex Haley!

The tribal chief, an elderly lady, greeted us next. Again, we were offered her certificate and given a chance to “contribute” to the welfare of her village.

We eventually made our way back through the gauntlet of begging children back to the ship for our three hour return trip through the whiteness.

It was not my best day....but, I consider that if you get 95% positive...a few not so positive days is acceptable....so be it! I have been to THE Gambia....now on to Ghana!

Dakar, Senegal

March 28, 2008

Dakar, located on the Cape Verde Peninsula, is the capital of Senegal and the westernmost African city. Dakar is actually called a commune, one of the 67 communes in Senegal created by the French colonial administration in 1887. Today the commune is ruled by a democratically elected municipal council and a mayor elected b that council. The area around Dakar was settled at least by the 15th century and the Portuguese, already on the island of Goree, began to use it as a base for the export of slaves. Goree was captured by the United Netherlands in 1588, and the island switched between the two countries several times before falling to the British in 1664 and then the French in 1677. Famous for its slave trade, the French abolished it in 1794. Napoleon re-established it in 1802, where it remained in place until permanently abolished in 1815. Illegal slave trade continued until 1848 when the French promoted peanut cultivation as an economic replacement. Dakar was considered one of the major cities of the French Empire and trading firms established offices, mills, breweries, refineries, and canneries. As a port with a strategic location and rail facilities, France maintained an unusually important naval base in the harbor. Dakar has become a major financial center, with more than a dozen national and regional banks, international organizations, and research centers. France still maintains an air force base at Yoff and the French fleet is serviced in Dakar’s port. The Fort D’Estress on Goree Island, where slaves were held, auctioned, and shipped from has been transformed into a museum.

It was on the Isle of Goree that I spent my morning. Although tiny, Isle de Goree, just a 20-minute ferry ride from the capital, might otherwise be just a pretty place, it disturbing history earns it a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Mid-15th century Portuguese explores first landed on the island and set up a fortress. Battles for the island characterized the 19th century but French governors ultimately won. You can’t help but being struck by the island’s quiet beauty—colorful bougainvillea drapes over old buildings, and the narrow alleyways are quiet. As we approached, I kept wishing I had my watercolors with me...such classic simple buildings in soft earthy ochres, terra cottas, and deep greens all silhouetted in shadows of tall palm trees, it looked like an expensive five-star resort might be awaiting us. However as the Maison des Esclaves (Slave house) came into view, that peaceful daydream was shattered. The structure is typical of the era. Human “cargo” was stored below and the merchant family lived in the upper floor. Up to 200 people were kept in small cells....many died. Families were split apart and young girls were raped. We were all moved as we stood in the door of “no return”...the door where some 20 million slaves were herded onto the ships to sail away to life of hardship and no return. The nearby Historical Museum showcased these unhumanly trade practices. It was a fascinating morning spent looking back to a time of sadness.


The afternoon was spent touring the capital city of Dakar. A busy and bustling place, the city is home to some 3 million people....one person more colorful than the next. I will always remember seeing men and women adorned in long flowing robes....color on color...headdresses piled high in huge “knots”....so picturesque.

We visited the very pristine Presidential Palace complete with the “red guard”...tall handsome men whose very dark blue-black skin colored only highlighted their large red berets. From there we rode through streets crowded with every manner of small stalls selling everything from pots and pans to clothes and tires....humanity upon humanity....so dense...so colorful.

We stopped for a visit to a small studio where we watched very skilled artist create amazing paintings...not of my taste, but amazing nonetheless.....paintings using over 24 various colors of natural sand. These skilled artists would “paint” in glue and then seemingly haphazardly sprinkle sand over the wet glue. After a few minutes they would bang the wooden board against the table revealing the most intricate design.

Our tour continued as we drove along the coast-line to see the so-called “five star” hotels where our guide told us that the French love to holiday....I am not convinced! We made a stop at the western most point of Africa....it was funny, I couldn’t help but be reminded of doing something similar when I went to Key West and visited the southern most point of the Continental United States.

So, although a long and tiring day,...made even longer and more tiring because of an intense sand storm that almost blinded and choked us, I was impressed with the life of the Senegalese....they appear to be a hard-working industrious people who live in a most colorful...if poor....part of the world!

Agadir, Morocco

March 25, 2008


Located in southwest Morocco on the short of the Atlantic Ocean and the foot of the Atlas Mountains, Agadir has beautiful sandy beaches and has become a popular destination for Northern Europeans seeking a little “winter sun”. Agadir is not a typical Moroccan city, but instead a modern and busy town catering to the tourist trade and famous for its delicious and abundant seafood. An important fishing and commercial port, Agadir was the first sardine port in the world. During medieval times Agadir was a small fishing village. The Portuguese established a trading post here in 1505 but the city came under Moroccan control in 1541. A stronghold was built on top of the hill overlooking the bay and the city became prosperous for two centuries. The arrival of a German gunboat to Agadir in 1911 triggered the “Agadir Crisis” between France and Germany, allowing France to establish a protectorate over nearly the entire kingdom of Morocco. In 1960, Agadir was almost totally destroyed by an earth quake lasting a mere 15 seconds, but measuring over 9.0 on the scale!!!! This devastating act of nature buried the city and killed nearly 15,000 people. Reconstruction began in 1961, thus the city looks nothing like a “traditional” Moroccan city.

I decided to take a tour into the country side of Morocco and headed for about an hour into Taroudant. On our way we visited the Kasbah (fort) and took in the panoramic view over the city of Agadir and the Atlantic Ocean. Camel drivers were there to offer rides as we looked down on colorful fishing boats and a protected harbor. Driving on we eventually encountered a herd of goats as they relaxed perched in the branches of the trees. What a curious site that seems to be distinctively something the goats of Morocco do. I had read about this and was delighted to actually see these animals seemingly very happy in their lofty perches.

Once in Taroudant we found red mud walls, built in the 16th century, which are typical of this region lending certain uniqueness to the city and creating a feeling that is quintessentially Moroccan. Capturing the essence of life centuries ago in Taroudant requires virtually no imagination, for the town gives the distinct impression that not much has changed in a very long time. The distinctive essence of this serene town is best discovered at its wonderful souks (markets) located in the old town medina area – among the most colorful in Morocco.

With thirty people in tow, some on walkers and one in a wheelchair, our guide dared take us into these souks. It was a bit scary to say the least. Crowded beyond belief with locals doing their daily shopping....from eggplants to bicycle tires, shoes, scarves, jewelry, spices, gasoline, furniture, music....you name it...it was here. Unfortunately the guide didn’t seem to realize that he was dealing with people that moved a bit slower than he did and it wasn’t long until we were separated from one another. Luckily the ship’s escorts were in the rear and were able to coral the group and finally met the guide again. One inattentive and determined member of our group was determined to shop even though we had been admonished to avoid it in these crowded shops. She was unconcerned when the guide expressed his displeasure with her behavior. I continue to be amazed by the people that seem to live only in their world with no concern for others. Regardless, we finally made it out of the markets...all 30 of us...and eventually made our way back to the ship just in time to sail for Dakar, Senegal.

It was a tiring but interesting day....one that made me so appreciate my easy life in the states! I suspect that more and more of the days ahead will underscore how comfortable we are in our lives and how we take them for granted....stay tuned!

Casablanca, Morocco

March 24, 2008

Casablanca Morocco...such an exotic place. I can’t believe that it has been over 35 years since I was here! Believe it or not, Casablanca was the very first place in the world that I ever traveled. My good friend, Hugh Latta, suggested that we go on a short vacation. He chose Morocco and so I went. What memories I had then and what new memories I have today.

Certainly the city doesn’t look anything like it did more than three decades ago. Many new and huge buildings have been built...the city is a hustling and bustling place that serves as the economic capital of the country. In fact there was very little that even seem familiar to me at all. But, let’s face it ...that was a long time ago and times have changed. I remember distinctively the “water sellers”...colorful men who were on the streets with large animal skins filled with mineral water that they would gladly sell. Of course, we tourist, wanted their photos...but the locals were flocking around them to buy a drink of water. Well...times have changed indeed. According to our guide once the concept of bottled water in plastic bottles came into vogue, these poor water sellers were basically out of a job. So now, you still see a few around...but instead of actually selling water, they are now only to be found at tourist attractions and the only think they sell is a pose for a tourist photo.


We began our day by driving past the main square: the Place Mohammed V. Such a clean and interesting place with tons of ordered palm trees lining park-like boulevards and hundreds of people going about their daily life. We ventured on to an area called New Medina which is a modern development in a traditional style and is the home of the Royal Palace. The current king is only 44 and is apparently well respected. The Royal Place is a grand look place that can hold some 50-75,000 people in the open courtyard outside. Very impressive.

Equally impressive is the Great Mosque, completed in 1993 and boasting the tallest minaret in the world. The Mosque will house more than 25,000 people inside and another 75,000 outside. What a memorable place!

We paid a visit to Notre Dame de Lourdes Church, a very contemporary Catholic Church. I found this visit very curious for two reasons. First, the guide went out of his way to explain that Morocco was 96% Muslim with the remaining 4 % being made up of Christains, Jews, and other religions. Why then, on a tour called “Casablanca Highlights” would we visit a Catholic Church? Granted, the full side walls of colorful stained glass from France were beautiful...and the structure itself was impressive in its modernity....but to consider this a “highlight” was a bit too much. . Second, the guide told us that the building was built in 1929 and that the windows were install in 1959. I really question his dates. This church was way to modern to have been built as early as 1929. If indeed, it had been built then I can’t imagine why we didn’t study it in our history of architecture courses. I think the whole place was “remodeled” in 1959...the building seemed to be inspired by LeCorbusier’s work. Maybe I am wrong and I intend to do some research when I return to verify my date or his...at least I have been there.

We ventured into the most colorful central market to see the beautiful displays of fresh fruit, nuts, vegetables, fish and meat. Wow! What a grand place to shop for beautiful food!

Driving along the coastal road, we saw the golden beaches of the Ain Diab Resort where we enjoyed a refreshing drink before returning to the ship. All in all, it was a good time....and very different from my first experience in this exotic city! Now it’s on to Adadir!

Funchal, Madeira

March 22, 2008

Funchal has been the capital of Madeira for more than five centuries. The name is said to have derived from the Portuguese word for fennel – funcho – which grew in abundance on the island. This beautiful island has a unique geographical feature: the second highest cliff in the world. (The highest is in Taiwan and is only a few feet higher) From the harbor the landscape rises gently to high slopes which surround the city in a natural amphitheatre sheltering the city.

The Madeira Islands of Portugal are famous the world over for their Madeira wine, equally popular for drinking and cooking. During the wine-making process, the wine is subjected to high temperatures in buildings called estufas, specially designed for this purpose. This process takes months and duplicates the effect of a long sea voyage in aging barrels through tropical climates. The estufas are built of stone and divided into compartments with heated hot air. The unique flavor of Madeira is due to this practice. By deliberately exposing the wine to air, causing it to oxidize, Madeira wine takes on a rich, tawny color. Another benefit of this process is the overall stability of the wine. An opened bottle of Madeira will be perfect for serving for up to a year. When properly sealed in bottles, Madeira is one of the longest lasting wines and has been known to survive for over 150 years in excellent condition.

This is my second visit to Madeira since we came here last year on the World Cruise....and once again, this is a “Virtuoso” Club day. Although our adventure was almost identical to the one last year I decided to join the group and see this beautiful island once again through the eyes of Virtuoso. Ironically, I recognized the guide from last year! What only one guide? Funny isn’t it?

We began the day with a drive westward to the top of the cliff “Cabo Girao”, the highest sea cliff in Europe and second in the world. This spectacular perch so high above the harbor gives you a memorable view....one that if you are fearful of heights you should avoid!

Continuing on we took a most scenic fifteen minute cable car ride from the Old Town high up the hillside to Monte, one of the most famous suburbs of Funchal, well known for its church “Quintas”, gardens, and of course the famous Toboggan ride....wicker toboggans mounted to sleds where you slide down the mountain side to Livramento on the pavement of working streets controlled by two men holding ropes.....an exhilarating experience. Last year I took the plunge. It was memorable, not only for the unusual and stimulating ride, but equally for the down pouring of rain that hit us as we careened downhill. I opted to pass on the experience this year, but enjoyed seeing my fellow travelers as they took the plunge!

We finished the day by returning to the famous Reid’s Palace Hotel....one of the best hotels anywhere, situated on ten acres of semi-tropical gardens and perched high on a cliff top overlooking Funchal harbor. We had a lovely luncheon in this lovely hotel....and this time I didn’t look like a drown rat like the year before.

Madeira is a magical place. I will always remember the beautiful terraces of thousand and thousands of bananas....lush gardens....tunnels....tunnels...and more tunnels. I was most impressed, this time, with the many very nice contemporary residences – many Bauhausian in nature -- that were sprinkled amongst the more traditional white stucco with terra cotta roofs. I was reminded of the whimsical roof tiles that done the ends of many of the tiled hipped roofs. You see doves, some in flight some perching; you see the faces of old men, dogs...all manner of decorative ornaments that add just a simple and unexpected touch to these interesting structures. How much fun it would be to go to a building supply store and look for some of these tiles...or better yet....to find some antique tiles! Next time!

Funchal, Madeira is a very nice way to begin our journey to Africa...certainly a place that I would like to return to some day and spend some several days....maybe then I can look for those roof tiles!

Philipsburg, St. Maarten

March 15, 2008

The small island of St. Maarten has the unique distinction of being the smallest inhabited sea island divided between two nations. Divided roughly in half between them, the southern Dutch half is part of the Netherlands Antilles and the northern French half is an overseas collectivity of France. Both sides offer beautiful beaches and a full range of resorts for tourists. The Dutch side is famous for its lively nightlife, casinos and exotic rum-based guava berry liquor drinks. The French side of the island is famous for its nude beaches, shopping and delicious French cuisine.

Local legend has that the island was divided by a race. The French and Dutch communities each chose a representative for the race. They were put back to back and when the race started had to walk, not run, along the coast in opposite directions. At the point where they met, a line was drawn across the island, connecting the starting point with their meeting point. This became the dividing line between Saint-Martin (the French side) and Sint Maarten (the Dutch side). The difference in size – the Dutch side is slightly smaller -- between the two halves is attributed to the French representative walking faster than the Dutch . Legend has it that the Frenchman drank wine beforehand, while the Dutch walker drank beer. Wine, with it “restorative” effects enabled the Frenchman to move faster! Who knows! The bottom line is that these two people, who carry French or Dutch passports, live and work on the island as though it was one island. The only difference I could see is that the Dutch side seemed a bit wealthier...the signs all in English.

I was reminded of being here once before when my friends, Ralph and Virginia Neely rented a house for a few weeks on the Dutch side and invited me to join them for a few days. Of course, I had no idea of exactly where we were...but it was fun to come back and see this charming island again.

My day began with a nice bus tour of the Dutch side. Mega yachts dot the harbor with its “front” street and “back” street...the two main shopping areas of the Dutch side. We soon boarded a very nice catamaran and for over an hour toured the harbor seeing the lifestyle of these islanders up close and personal. Very nice! Eventually we docked in Marigot, a small harbor on the French side where there was time for shopping and strolling through the quaint village. I sat at a charming dock-side café and had a bite to eat and watched the rich and famous lounging on their yachts.

After another hour on the bus, driving through nice residential areas, we eventually crossed the “boarder” back into the Dutch side just in time to board the ship before sailing. Although fast, my time in St. Maartens was good...I feel as though I got reacquainted with this charming place....now, when can I come back?

Now we head across the Atlantic for six sea days as we make our way toward Africa. I can’t wait to see all that awaits us there....stay tuned!

San Juan, Puerto Rico

March 14, 2008

The ship docked on a small island called the Isleta de San Juan close to an area of the city known as “Old” San Juan. The quaint cobblestone streets and beautiful colonial architecture, some of which dates back to the 16th and 17th century gives the impression of stepping back in time. Massive walls and sections of old forts surround parts of the city. As a settlement of the Spanish Empire, San Juan was first used by merchant and military ships traveling from Spain as the first stopover in the Americas. The many fortifications built on the island were meant to protect the vast amounts of gold and silver transported from the New World To Europe. as such, San Juan became a target for pirates as well as many foreign powers,. In 1898 Spain ceded the island to the United States by signing the Treaty of Paris, which ended the Spanish-American War.

My visit to San Juan began with a tour of the famous Bacardi Run Factory. Having visiting a number of distilleries and factories, I always find them interesting. Unfortunately, visiting the Bacardi factory was not so special. It was one big advertisement....a lot of waiting for the tour to begin....and then a very “plastic” feeling of seeing a facsimile of the process....a major disappointment. Fortunately, our coach guide was sensitive to this tour and went out of his way to show us around the old part of the city as we made our way back to the ship. I was reminded of staying in an old monastery that has been converted to a 5-star hotel back when I was President of ASID. It was a nice trip down memory lane.

So, my brief visit to Puerto Rico was really uneventful. Now it is on to Phillipsburg, St. Maarten.

Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos Islands

March 13, 2008


Grand Turk Island is named after a species of cactus on the island, whose top is said to resemble a Turkish fez. Grand Turk first came to international attention in 1962 when John Glenn’s Mercury spacecraft landed off the southeast shoreline in the vicinity of the island. A replica of the spacecraft is on display at the entrance to the airport. Although historians do not have conclusive proof, it has been suggested that Grand Turk was the possible site of landfall for Christopher Columbus during his discovery of the New World in 1492. The Turks and Caicos Islands are comprised of eight main islands and twenty smaller islands. The Caicos Islands are the larger group, with almost 96 percent of the land area and 82 percent of the population (around 3,000-4,000 people total!) As a British territory, Queen Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom is the sovereign.. In its long history, many different nations have controlled the islands and they were a popular hideout for pirates and a source of slaves for many of the controlling nations. The primary economic resource is tourism and offshore financial services. Upscale resorts appeal to tourists – mostly coming from the United States and The United Kingdom to take advantage of the beautiful beaches and crystal clear blue waters.

It was those crystal clear waters that drew my attention for shortly after leaving the ship I boarded a snorkeling boat and was soon floating above the beautiful and colorful fishes. Our first stop was most interesting as we anchored just on the edge of the reef. The water just beneath us was about 35 feet deep and hosted scores of large and small fish...one more colorful than the next. As one of our guides dove deep into the water he opened a small plastic bottle filled with food and the fish suddenly swarmed the area....how much fun. The poor guy could hardly surface for the hundreds of fish that engulfed him.

At the edge of the reef the depth of the sea plunged to a staggering 7,000 feet. It was very dramatic to see the difference in the color of the water and how the fish stayed on the reef with a few brave souls venturing off every so slightly into the deeper water. Very beautiful and very dramatic.

Our next stop was in a much shallower area...I would think about 10 feet or so! Here the reef was much more colorful with slowly waving “fans” of coral...lots of brain coral...and tons of exotic fish. What a relaxing day in this most beautiful part of the world. It would be fun to come back here and stay for several days to take full advantage of the beautiful waters!

Ft. Lauderdale

March 11, 2008

Well, we made it....all around South America and Antarctica! I can’t believe that this cruise is already over! What an amazing time that went so quickly....so many places, so many things to see, so many adventures. What a wonderful trip.

Sailing back into Ft. Lauderdale made me feel very good. The buildings look so clean...the streets look clean...the water looks clean....how nice to be “home”.

Getting off the ship was another thing! No one seemed to know exactly what we were to do. In one minute I was told that I could leave the ship....then, no, you can’t get off yet....then...now you can go....no you can’t. What an ordeal!

Finally I was able to make it off the ship, although my card didn’t “scan” to let the crew know that I was indeed “off” the ship, so the security officer simply took my name and cabin number and off I went. I learned later that I held up the “clearing” of the ship for an hour as they continued to page me looking for me so the customs people would release the ship. How embarrassing...but it wasn’t my fault!

Once I finally got through Customs, I decided that I would ship a bag of my winter things and other stuff that I would not need for the Africa adventure back home. I hailed a taxi and ask the driver to take me to a local UPS store and then to a Wal-Mart, Target, or some such place....what a mistake! We quickly found a shipping store and I was able to send a bag home for a third of what the ship wanted to ship it....job well done. The nice driver waited for me, and we started out for my Wal-Mart adventure. All I needed were a few personal things that could have been found at any major drug store....so as I watched drug store after drug store pass by, I said something to the driver that we could stop. On no, he said, Wal-Mart is just around the corner. Well...$120.00 later I was literally taken for a ride around Ft. Lauderdale and halfway to Miami. What a mistake. When I realized what was happening, it was too late and I finally decided to just relax and consider this as a “contribution” to the local economy! Never again! To add insult to injury, when I returned to the ship and was storing my new purchases I realized that I had bought mouse instead of hairspray....so I now have three months supply of something I cannot use! Ugh!

I boarded the ship to check back into “my” room and at 5 PM we set sail....well not quite...it was actually 7 PM.

I moved my dinner table to be at a table for two with my friend Louise, from Texas. Louise and MaryBeth are two great women who, until we got to Ft. Lauderdale, were known as the “007” girls because they occupied the penthouse suite of that number. They are...were....on the ship until the end of November. I met them last year on the World Cruise when they sailed as far as Sydney. What great people they are and what great friends they have become. They have been kind AND patient enough to teach me Mahjong....a game that I have always wanted to learn, but looked too complicated....well, I am learning...and it is great fun. Now I just have to teach others when I get home so I don’t forget how to play this great game!

Well, the night before we landed in Ft. Lauderdale, MaryBeth announced that because of personal reasons that she would be leaving the ship. I am sorry that things worked out like that as I know that she was looking forward to the long cruise and we, of course, were looking forward to a lot more Mahjong games. But, alas, she had to leave. So, Louise moved from the penthouse to an inside cabin....what a change! It seems that her new cabin is the only one that will allow her to stay in the same cabin for the rest of her trip (she’s on until the end of November!!!) without having to move each leg....something she prefers....so there she is, from the top to the bottom. We laugh about it....as she says....all the way to the bank. Just think of the money she is saving! Anyway, since she and MaryBeth had a table for two in a lovely spot in the dining room, Louise asked me to join her for dinner. It is lovely. We both eat only a few courses so we are able to finish early and get on about our nights activities. Likewise, Louise and I have compared notes and we are booked on some of the same excursions so that will be fun. We will miss MaryBeth but we will continue on....now if we can just find other Mahjongg players!

It seems strange to be on the ship with so many new faces including many new crew members. After almost three months you get to be somewhat of a family and now that they are gone it seems strange....but I will get used to it and will look forward to developing new friendships and experiencing new places in the world with interesting people.....stay tuned!

Half Moon Cay, Bahamas

March 10, 2008

Half Moon Cay is Holland America’s private resort on Little San Salvador Island. Less than 100 miles southeast of Nassau between Cat Island and Eleuthera, many Bahamians regard this island to be the most beautiful in the Bahamas. Half Moon Gay serves up a warm West Indies ambiance seasoned with flavors of the countries that made their mark in the Caribbean centuries ago. Three main facilities features distinctive Dutch, English, French and Spanish designs. In keeping with the company’s desire to conserve the environment, only 45 acres have been developed to maintain as much habitat as possible for wildlife. Parts of the island have been designated a Wild Bird Reserve by the Bahamian national Trust.

I spent most of my day on this special island snorkeling. Beautiful coral reefs sheltered countless colorful fish. Because it was an overcast day, the water was just slightly cold...but certainly not cold enough for me to enjoy a relaxing and slow “float” watching the beautiful and colorful fish below.

A delicious barbeque lunch followed. Holland America has done a great job of creating pavilions tucked into the sand dunes for only a handful of people. Even though there was another large Holland American ship in port at the same time as we were, because of the design we didn’t feel like we were there with the masses...in contrast, it was almost like being on a private picnic...a lovely experience.

I was saddened when I returned to the ship and learned that one of our great Pilipino crew had fallen off a tram and severely injured his head. He was airlifted to Miami for surgery and, unfortunately is not expected to live. How sad. It only underscores how quickly and easily something so tragic can happen. My thoughts and prayers are with him and his family.

So....the South American cruise is coming to an end....hard to believe that I have been gone since January ....that I have seen so many wonderful and interesting places. Hard to believe that I will be sailing tomorrow for another great adventure....Africa. It’s all so very special....I am a lucky man!

Barbados

March 6, 2008

Wow! Barbados.....I have always wanted to visit this island...and now that I have been there, I want to go back.

My day in Barbados was special. When I signed up for the cruise I learned that I would have three “Virtuoso” Club days....tours especially designed for those of us traveling with travel agents that are “Virtuoso” members. These tours have always been special and Barbados was certainly no exception.

A peaceful tribe of Indian, the Arawaks, originally inhabited the island; however they mysteriously disappeared by the time the Portuguese arrived in 1536. The latter never stayed around, other than to give the Island its name, Los Barbados “the bearded ones” presumably after the Bearded Fig Tree whose long roots resemble a giant beard.

We began our tour with a drive along the west or “gold” coast of the island. We passed through Jamestown where in 1625 a group of English landed and claimed the island for King James. The island remained British until 1966 when, on November 30, it gained independence.

The trade winds have uniquely blessed Barbados. On the Caribbean side, the beaches are dusted with sugar-spun sand and lapped by turquoise waves. Numerous hotels are being restored and built, including a Four Seasons. Beautiful beaches, golf courses, and lovely homes dotted the beach. What a special place.

Our first stop was at a private home....a sugar cane plantation.....called an “abbey”, however it has never been a religious site, but rather a private home held by the same family for centuries until 2006 when it was purchased by a local Barbadian, an architect, who has maintained the house and added a special showroom where he sells rum and sugar from the fields. What fun it was to see how the wealthy have lived on this island for years.

Leaving there we traveled upwards a bit to overlook a special view of the rocky Atlantic ocean. Huge waves have slowly undermined large boulders on the sea coast leaving mushroom-shaped outcroppings that towered above us. Warm and brisk ocean breezes made our walk along the beach very pleasant as we perused the local crafts.

Eventually we found ourselves at Fisher Pond Great House. This magnificent house is set in the lush valley of Sweet Bottom amid sugar cane fields, clusters of bamboo, royal palms and evergreens. We were greeted by the owner, Mr. Chandler, who has restored the house to enhance its old-world charm and romance. After drinks in the garden we were escorted into his lovely home where a pianist serenaded us as we were seated a two huge antique dining tables laden with colorful crystal, silver and dinnerware...not to mention centerpieces of beautifully blooming orchids. What a lovely luncheon we had, complete with our Virtuoso host, Chuck, signing a “farewell” ballad to us.

We continued on our circle route back to the ship, having seen the entire island and enjoyed its warm hospitality.....yes...it was a special day and a special place that I look forward to returning to some day.

Devil’s Island, French Guiana

March 4, 2008


Devil’s Island is a small rocky islet in the Atlantic Ocean in northern French Guiana. It was part of a French penal settlement in use from 1852 to 1946. The prisoners were classed as habitual criminals who were permitted to work; political prisoners and criminals who were permitted limited liberty; and felons who were imprisoned at hard labor. If a prisoner was sentenced to a term of less than eight years, he had to spend an equal period of time in French Guiana to earn money to pay his way home. If the sentence was more than eight years, he had to remain for life.

From what I saw as we toured the ruins, death would have been a blessing. There was something very dramatic about this beautiful tropical island with its lush green palm trees and warm breezes and the small dank and dark cells in which the prisoners simply existed. How they must have felt as they finally reached the place after sailing from France in the hull of small ships....only to reach the place and be “installed” in these small ...very small...slots where they spent 23 hours a day. I can’t imagine. And, to make sure that they didn’t try to escape the jailers used the corpses of dead prisoners (an average of one or two a day!) to feed the local sharks that surround the small three islands that make up Devil’s Island. Dreadful.

I was reminded that the very good movie and book...Papillion was based on this island....I must rent it and see it again!

Although very hot and very humid....we took a leisurely stroll around the island. Monkeys and strange colorful rodents scampered as we walked by. Numerous frogs, some caimans, and tons of lizards also greeted us. We visited the small cemetery where children and an occasional Warden were buried. Many of the buildings are in ruin...but others are still being used. There is a small hotel...a quaint chapel complete with impressive murals painted by prisioners....a hospital in ruin....and small houses used by the jailers. It was a most pleasant day...if eerie.

I couldn’t help but notice that even in the most dire places...the cells.....someone had taken the time to add some “decoration” around the doors to each cell. It seemed so curious to me to think that here in these small and horrible cells that there was some hope and some “joy” if you will with a painted pattern surrounding the doors....human nature seeks beauty. What a commentary!

So...the days of this first cruise are slowly coming to a close. It is hard to believe that it has gone so quickly....and soon we will embark on the next phase....another part of the world.

In the meantime, tomorrow we dock in Barbados. I have never been there and am looking forward to another of our “Virtuoso” days. Stay tuned!

Parintins, Brazil

March 1, 2008


After spending two rather nice days far up the Amazon River, we sailed south to make our way back to the Atlantic. On the way we stopped in Parintins for a most enjoyable day.

As the Daily Program summarized....”The city of Parintins is located east of Manaus, on the island of Tupinambarana. It hosts the annual party in the Amazonas known as the Boi-Bumba Festival. The festival, held each June, is a traditional folkloric festival that combines African and European traditions. During the three-day festival a mixture of theatre, drums, dancing, music, and circus all combine to thrill audiences and the city is packed with people each year to celebrate. The festival enacts the kidnapping, death and resurrection of an ox, which is a metaphor for their agricultural cycles. Over the years the festival has developed into a competition with the Boi teams – one red and one blue—comprising several thousand members each. The rivalry between the two teams grew out of a friendly feud between to families. During the festival, tens of thousands of people watch the parades in a 35,000 person capacity stadium built just for the occasion. The parades incorporate elements of Amazonian tales and legends and the displays have become increasingly more professional over the years. The competing teams are judged on their music, dancing performance and costumes. Every citizen supports either the red team or the blue team and the spectacle is said to be so glamorous and over the top that it rivals Rio’s Carnival.”

This RED and BLUE rivalry is serious. Apparently, one side of this small island is “red” and the other is “blue” We were told that Coca-Cola sponsors the event each year and that....believe it or not....Coke changes it’s colors from the traditional red and white to BLUE and white in that section of town. I really could not believe it...but I saw it with my own eyes. We went to the Blue section to see an hour and a half fantastic show...and sure enough, the walls were covered with the Coca-Cola logo...but painted in brilliant blue and white. I am told that during the festival itself, that cans of Coke are produced in Blue and white as well. I did see a small white van painted with the Coke Logo....Coca was written in Blue and Cola was written in Red....what we don’t do for marketing!

The performance we saw was unbelievable. So many feathers....so many incredible and creative costumes...huge floats with moving parts and smoky nostrils....scantily clad young men and women who danced non-stop at a feverish pace for the entire show...all to the beat of a most energetic band. The whole spectacular show was unbelievable. Luckily, since it was raining....we were in the rain forest, after all!... we were seated in a covered arena and other than enduring the high humidity had a very pleasant moring.

It was indeed a grand way to end our two week stay in Brazil.....and I will always have the memory of a smiling young Boy Scout....Sea Scout, really!....who, along with his Troup mates had been recruited to serve as “meeters and greeters” along the way. We will soon be back on the open seas headed for Devil’s Island.