Funchal, Madeira

March 22, 2008

Funchal has been the capital of Madeira for more than five centuries. The name is said to have derived from the Portuguese word for fennel – funcho – which grew in abundance on the island. This beautiful island has a unique geographical feature: the second highest cliff in the world. (The highest is in Taiwan and is only a few feet higher) From the harbor the landscape rises gently to high slopes which surround the city in a natural amphitheatre sheltering the city.

The Madeira Islands of Portugal are famous the world over for their Madeira wine, equally popular for drinking and cooking. During the wine-making process, the wine is subjected to high temperatures in buildings called estufas, specially designed for this purpose. This process takes months and duplicates the effect of a long sea voyage in aging barrels through tropical climates. The estufas are built of stone and divided into compartments with heated hot air. The unique flavor of Madeira is due to this practice. By deliberately exposing the wine to air, causing it to oxidize, Madeira wine takes on a rich, tawny color. Another benefit of this process is the overall stability of the wine. An opened bottle of Madeira will be perfect for serving for up to a year. When properly sealed in bottles, Madeira is one of the longest lasting wines and has been known to survive for over 150 years in excellent condition.

This is my second visit to Madeira since we came here last year on the World Cruise....and once again, this is a “Virtuoso” Club day. Although our adventure was almost identical to the one last year I decided to join the group and see this beautiful island once again through the eyes of Virtuoso. Ironically, I recognized the guide from last year! What only one guide? Funny isn’t it?

We began the day with a drive westward to the top of the cliff “Cabo Girao”, the highest sea cliff in Europe and second in the world. This spectacular perch so high above the harbor gives you a memorable view....one that if you are fearful of heights you should avoid!

Continuing on we took a most scenic fifteen minute cable car ride from the Old Town high up the hillside to Monte, one of the most famous suburbs of Funchal, well known for its church “Quintas”, gardens, and of course the famous Toboggan ride....wicker toboggans mounted to sleds where you slide down the mountain side to Livramento on the pavement of working streets controlled by two men holding ropes.....an exhilarating experience. Last year I took the plunge. It was memorable, not only for the unusual and stimulating ride, but equally for the down pouring of rain that hit us as we careened downhill. I opted to pass on the experience this year, but enjoyed seeing my fellow travelers as they took the plunge!

We finished the day by returning to the famous Reid’s Palace Hotel....one of the best hotels anywhere, situated on ten acres of semi-tropical gardens and perched high on a cliff top overlooking Funchal harbor. We had a lovely luncheon in this lovely hotel....and this time I didn’t look like a drown rat like the year before.

Madeira is a magical place. I will always remember the beautiful terraces of thousand and thousands of bananas....lush gardens....tunnels....tunnels...and more tunnels. I was most impressed, this time, with the many very nice contemporary residences – many Bauhausian in nature -- that were sprinkled amongst the more traditional white stucco with terra cotta roofs. I was reminded of the whimsical roof tiles that done the ends of many of the tiled hipped roofs. You see doves, some in flight some perching; you see the faces of old men, dogs...all manner of decorative ornaments that add just a simple and unexpected touch to these interesting structures. How much fun it would be to go to a building supply store and look for some of these tiles...or better yet....to find some antique tiles! Next time!

Funchal, Madeira is a very nice way to begin our journey to Africa...certainly a place that I would like to return to some day and spend some several days....maybe then I can look for those roof tiles!