Manaus, Brazil

February 28-29, 2008

We finally reached Manaus the most remote of the stops along the Amazon that we will make. What a surprising place Manaus is. With almost three million!!!!! inhabitants it is amazing to think that this large city thrives out here in the middle of the Amazon rain forest. It is, of course, that rain forest that is the very reason for this large city being here in the first place.....rubber!

Back in the middle of the 19th century, rubber barons discovered this place and set up their operations here. Many people became very wealthy from the local forests and lived a most grand lifestyle.

We visited the former palace of one of these rubber barons. Huge tall ceilings with beautiful winding staircases and intricately inlaid parquet floors, stained glass windows showed that these people really knew how to live.

The highlight of Manaus is the famed Teatro Amazonas Opera House built in 1896. This marvel of architecture features a dome of 36,000 vitrified ceramic tiles imported from Europe, set in a mosaic of the colors of the Brazilian flag. The amazing painting that graces the inside of the dome is a recreation of the view you would have if you stood under the Eiffel Tower and looked up. The dazzling auditorium boasts perfect acoustics, which we were able to hear because we were lucky that on our visit the Amazon Philharmonic Orchestra was rehearsing. What a thrill! We strolled the ornate ballroom and visited some small side rooms where they have a few costumes and memorabilia of the hundreds of artists that have graced this stage from all over the world. Anyone that is or was anyone in opera and ballet has been here...amazing when you think that we are in the middle of the Amazon rain forest.

Having two days in Manaus, I spent one of them in a small ferry boat traveling in the back waters to see the floating houses and local villages. We dined in a most extraordinary fashion in a floating restaurant. We walked along a rickety boardwalk to eventually come to a lake filled with the large over-scaled water lilies. We boarded small canoes and slowly made our way deep into the flooded forest where local families met us in hand-hewn canoes laden down with large anacondas, sloths, monkeys, and caymen....wanting us to take their picture and....of course, give them some dollars. We stopped at one man’s small family compound where his wife show us how she digs up the room of a local potato-like plant, boils it, grinds it to flour and eventually makes a fried bread that is a staple of their table. The husband showed us a stand of rubber trees and demonstrated how by using a special tool and gouging the bark that the sap...or milk as the locals call it....can be collected. We marveled at the hundreds of floating houses....even floating barns...for the livestock. One small community of maybe five or six houses had three churches! The whole experience was great to see how these people live and thrive in this most humid and amazing place called the Amazon.

So now we sail back downstream stopping tomorrow in a small village where we are promised a spectacular show of local folklore....stay tuned!

Boca da Valeria, Brazil

February 27, 2008

We stopped along side a very small village (100 people???) and spent a most enjoyable time strolling thru the muddy paths “escorted” by the small children.

Women stood on the porches of their stilted homes and invited you in. Families dressed in feathery costumes and posed for pictures. Craftsmen sold their tourist trinkets in thatched huts and the children strolled along side cajoling for candy and money. Others had trained monkeys that “worked” for tips, while some locals just stood in the shadows gawking at us like we were gawking at them.

Mary Beth and Louise (two friends I have made who hail from Texas and are spending 10 months!!!!! Count em! 10 months on the ship.....they are teaching me Mah-jongg!..) and I decided to go ashore together. I am so glad that I was with them. Mary Beth brought along two large bags of chocolates...the small gold-wrapped chocolate coins we get on our pillows at night and a back of chocolate kisses she had brought along for this very visit. Well....once I brought out one bag of those chocolates I was surrounded....swarmed.!!!!....with eager children with their hands out-stretched and their fingers poking and prodding at me....it was amazing. There must have been 25 kids all around me wanting that candy. I am so glad that Mary Beth gave the bag to me...she would have been totally overwhelmed if she had been bombarded like I was. I only had a few single dollar bills in my pocket...and I was amazed to find that that money survived the “attack”. It was really tons of fun. The children were all polite,
if eager, and they were clean beyond belief. It was fun to share with them.

That night as we sat in one of the card rooms playing our usual game of Mah-jongg the ship suddenly listed sharply to the starboard side. We couldn’t believe what was happening....after all, we were sailing on a smooth river. People screamed... the dance band in the adjacent lounge stopped playing. You could hear dishes and bottles crashing and indeed a very large planter sitting beside our table came crashing to the floor breaking into smithereens. It was really very frightening! We decided that we must have turned sharply to avoid hitting one of the small fishing boats that dot the Amazon.

Soon the Captain came on the speaker and announced that the local Brazilian pilot that was on board to help us navigate thru these waters had misread the charts and had given the wrong instructions and had indeed turned the rudder too quickly to avoid hitting a sand bar. You could tell from his voice that the Captain was not a happy camper and he assured us that he had taken control of the ship and that we would be safe in his hands. I can’t imagine the total cost of the damage of that small incident. Much of the liquor in the bars was broken...dishes and glasses were thrown from the tables in the dining room. It was a mess....one that the efficient staff had cleaned up in no time. Phew...you just never know what will happen next!!!

Santarem, Brazil

February 26, 2008

We sailed from Belem to cross the equator yet again...it seems that we are almost constantly going back and forth across the equator in these parts.

We arrived in the hustling city of Santarem whose population is over 1 million. And like so many other of the cities we have visited in Brazil it looks very similar.

I decided to take a river cruise....a chance to see the “meetings of the waters” as they say.

Because the Amazon is made up of hundreds of smaller rivers that feed it, there are a number of spots along the way where these rivers meet. It seems that there are some four different “types” of rivers designated by their color. The Amazon is brown because of the strength of its current and the fact that it erodes the coast line for thousands of miles and moves so quickly that the sediment does not have a chance to settle. There are other rivers that are known as “green” water because of the algae that collects in their streams. “Clear” water is very rare, but apparently exists. Perhaps the most abundant, other than the “brown” water of the Amazon, is the “black” water of many rivers. These black rivers get their distinctive color because of the very acidic water that results from the dense jungles that grow along their banks. When these various colored rivers meet there is a section of the main Amazon that, for many miles, is both brown and black. Slowly but surely the great Amazon will eventually absorb the smaller river and the water will become the same color...but the line between the two is very distinctive and a delight to see.

We were told that there are several reasons that the two waters don’t mix immediately. First the acidity of the black water and the brown water is different. Secondly, the Amazon is flowing at almost double the speed of the smaller river. Thirdly, the temperature of the Amazon is several degrees colder than the smaller river as it gets a lot of its water from melting snow from the Andes. These factors all combine to make this natural phoneme of the meeting of the waters.

We spent a relaxing day on a small ferry boat on the Tapajos River as we saw the stilted and floating homes of the locals. We fished for piranhas along side the locals. We even found a nice sandy beach where we swam in the delightful warm waters while fresh water pink dolphins playfully watched us from a distance.

A very nice day indeed!

Belem, Brazil

February 24, 2008

Wow! What a country of contrast Brazil is! On one hand you have high-rise condominiums with fantastic views while on the other hand the shadows of these buildings fall on fevelas (sp?) ...the slums of Brazil.

My day in Belem offered the same contrast. I signed up for a tour called “Arts and Culture of Belem”. I wasn’t at all sure what this would entail, but decided to go for it. As it turned out, this tour offered me a great view of part of Brazil that I didn’t think existed.

We visited an opera theater, three museums, a botanical garden complete with a “Borboletario” (butterfly aviary!). Each visit was more exciting and impressive than the last!

The Da Paz Theater, opened in 1878, was built in neo-classical style. Like other theaters we have seen this fancy show place boasted cane-bottomed chairs....designed to be cooler in these hot and humid climates. Seating 1,100 patrons in an auditorium that has fantastic acoustics, the list of performers that have performed on this stage is staggering. Even our guide, an opera singer in an earlier life, told us of his time on that stage....and, indeed, he gave us an impromptu concert as we sat in the rear and he projected a very believable rendition of “Ava Maria”. It was an amazing building and so nice to see.

Our next stop was to the Museum of Sacred Arts, where we saw the most unbelievable collection of religious iconography. I simply could not believe that I was still in Brazil. What a magnificent collection of silver chalices, (many imbedded with semi and precious stones), sculpture, crucifixes and other amazing religious imagery. And best of all, this great collection was presented in as professional manner as I have ever seen. Dark halls with sensitive mountings and the most incredible and focused lighting all worked together to give you that spine-tingling feeling that you are seeing something very special. I was really blown away! Although there were many memorable items in that great museum, I will never forget a collection of small...about 12 inches high....crucifixes. Our guide challenged us to examine these sculptures very carefully and we would, if very observant, see something quite amazing. No one, it seems, had such a good eye and we were all impressed when he told us that the “blood” that dotted the bodies of the Christ figures on the various crosses was the tips of larger rubies that were imbedded within the wood of the sculpture...a very cleaver way for someone at sometime to smuggle these precious stones out of somewhere without detection. I wonder how many other such statues I have seen that were likewise equally precious and I didn’t realize what I was looking at.

Next we visited an old fort that was built along the edge of the river eons ago. It was impressive on its own, but within the confines of this fort was yet another museum....this time a small archeological museum. Here we learned about the early inhabitants of the region seeing their tools and other aspects of their lives. Most peculiar were the “chastity stones”...that were apparently laced onto the bodies of young women to protect them from would-be suitors! Also impressive was a collection of large pottery jugs that once held the bones of the dead. These vessels were so beautiful...and so contemporary in sprit that if you hadn’t told me I would have thought that they were made by modern craftsmen....amazing. And once again, like the religious icon museum, the presentation of this collection was exceptional!

We took a brief stop in a botanical garden where we saw the most beautiful landscape you can imagine. Sensitive and creative fountains, paths, butterfly house and aviary all worked together to make a most enjoyable stroll through nature...and again, I kept reminding myself that I was in Brazil....where was the graffiti, the dilapidated buildings? Where were the lean-to houses and the filthy streets and alleys? It was such a breath of fresh air...beautifully presented. And once again I spotted something I will never forget....red ibis. The most amazing colored birds I have ever seen...difficult to describe because of the intensity of the sharp corral? scarlet? Blood-orange? color you have ever seen.

Our final stop was at a gemology museum that was housed in a former prison. Throughout Brazil we have visited old prisons that have been converted into “shopping malls” complete with tourist junk. I assumed this would be another such adventure. Was I ever wrong! This old prison, which operated as a jail until only eight years ago has been converted into a museum of the gemstones of Brazil. Again, like the other two museums, what a presentation of a collection. Who did that lighting? Unbelievable! And then other “cells” had been converted into shops, but unlike the previous similar facilities, these shops were first rate jewelry stores offering very beautiful and very expensive “bobbles”.

So, as I boarded the bus to take the 35-40 minute ride back to the pier where we had to catch a ferry boat tender back to the ship, I was feeling better about Brazil...that there was some “art and culture” in this place.

My enthusiasm was short-lived.

Our tender encountered very turbulent currents and the cheap white plastic chairs that were on the ferry started sliding across the wet floor. People were thrown all over the place like pick-up sticks. The legs of the chairs buckled and those that had not been removed from their chairs from sliding were bolted out from collapsing chairs. It was a bit chaotic to say the least. Back on board we learned that one friend had been stabbed as his camera was stolen and at least two or three others were robbed of their cash. I quickly came back to the reality that I was in Brazil!
But at least when I think back to my experience in Brazil I can remember the exceptional collections I saw in Belem and the extraordinary manner that they were presented. It gives me hope for the rest of the country!

Fortaleza, Brazil

February 22, 2008

I think I have been in Brazil too long...these cities are all beginning to look alike. It is now four days later and I am sitting down to write about Fortaleza and I am drawing a blank on what I saw and did! When I read the “write-up” in the brochure I am reminded of the Cathedral we saw and a few other sites...but I must honestly admit that many of these cities in Brazil are indeed looking alike. And, unfortunately, the sad truth is...they are not comfortable to be in. The petty thievery is rampant and therefore makes one very uncomfortable visiting them.

We have been warned by the ship’s port lecturer over and over again that we have to be on the lookout for pick pockets and hoodlums. I, of course, am accustomed to some of this having traveled in many “developing” countries...however, somehow here it is different. The thieves are more forceful and they are more of them! It is a shame, because Brazil is a fascinating country with the thirteenth largest economy in the world. Why then must there be so many slums? So many thieves?

Sadly with each city we have visited we hear of more and more incidents of muggings. One of the ship’s photographers was mugged on the beaches in Rio, robbed of his camera in open daylight surrounded by hundreds of people. The next city, he was struck again...the same guy....this time they ripped a cheap beaded necklace from his neck. Another passenger...a very nice man who suffers from MS and walks with a definite limp and a cane was accosted at knife point. When he foolishly resisted a bit they stabbed him resulting in a number of stitches and a near pass-out from shock. Unfortunately, because of tides and water levels, the shuttle to the tender was a 45 minute ride away and then there was a very “lumpy” and bumpy tender ride back to the ship...bleeding all the way! He is okay....but, like me, ready to leave Brazil.

I have had good days in Belem and today in Santarem where I took an long “river cruise” for piranha fishing and then swimming....both cities were enjoyable for me (however, it was in Belem that my friend was stabbed!) I think I will go to bed now and not write about these cities....I want to be rested and do them justice...both were good for me....so more to come on them later.

I know that the vast majority of the people of Brazil are wonderful, hard-working people who are as disgusted as I am with the few of their fellow countrymen who are perpetrating all these crimes. Brazil is a great place....it just needs to someway somehow clean up it’s act!

Fortaleza, Brazil

February 22, 2008

I think I have been in Brazil too long...these cities are all beginning to look alike. It is now four days later and I am sitting down to write about Fortaleza and I am drawing a blank on what I saw and did! When I read the “write-up” in the brochure I am reminded of the Cathedral we saw and a few other sites...but I must honestly admit that many of these cities in Brazil are indeed looking alike. And, unfortunately, the sad truth is...they are not comfortable to be in. The petty thievery is rampant and therefore makes one very uncomfortable visiting them.

We have been warned by the ship’s port lecturer over and over again that we have to be on the lookout for pick pockets and hoodlums. I, of course, am accustomed to some of this having traveled in many “developing” countries...however, somehow here it is different. The thieves are more forceful and they are more of them! It is a shame, because Brazil is a fascinating country with the thirteenth largest economy in the world. Why then must there be so many slums? So many thieves?

Sadly with each city we have visited we hear of more and more incidents of muggings. One of the ship’s photographers was mugged on the beaches in Rio, robbed of his camera in open daylight surrounded by hundreds of people. The next city, he was struck again...the same guy....this time they ripped a cheap beaded necklace from his neck. Another passenger...a very nice man who suffers from MS and walks with a definite limp and a cane was accosted at knife point. When he foolishly resisted a bit they stabbed him resulting in a number of stitches and a near pass-out from shock. Unfortunately, because of tides and water levels, the shuttle to the tender was a 45 minute ride away and then there was a very “lumpy” and bumpy tender ride back to the ship...bleeding all the way! He is okay....but, like me, ready to leave Brazil.

I have had good days in Belem and today in Santarem where I took an long “river cruise” for piranha fishing and then swimming....both cities were enjoyable for me (however, it was in Belem that my friend was stabbed!) I think I will go to bed now and not write about these cities....I want to be rested and do them justice...both were good for me....so more to come on them later.

I know that the vast majority of the people of Brazil are wonderful, hard-working people who are as disgusted as I am with the few of their fellow countrymen who are perpetrating all these crimes. Brazil is a great place....it just needs to someway somehow clean up it’s act!

Recife, Brazil

February 20, 2008

Known as the Brazilian Venice, Recife is surrounded by rivers and is dotted with islands and mangroves. One of the first areas in Brazil settled by the Portuguese Crown, Recife’s distance from Portugal made it difficult for the crown to invest human or financial resources to the area. John III of Portugal decided to assign this task to private entrepreneurs and while most of these projects failed, Pernambuco prospered die to the sugarcane industry. All that was needed was sufficient labor in the fields and to keep the wooden machinery working. From the 16th to the 19th century slaves were imported from Africa and this influence is notable in the cultural aspect of the city. Added to this mixture of Portuguese, Indians, and black slaves, the Dutch also had a major impact on the area. From 1580 to 1640, the kingdoms of Spain and Portugal were unified and Spain was engaged in a war against the Netherlands, the main distributors of Brazilian sugar in Europe. The Dutch invaded sugar producing cities in Brazil and in the mid 1600’s took control of Recife. During this period, Recife became one of the most cosmopolitan cities of the world. The first Jewish community and synagogue of the Americas was founded in the city. The inhabitants of Recife, eager to expel the Dutch, carried out the Pernambucan Insurrection.. Most of the Jews fled to Amsterdam while others fled to North American, starting the first Jewish community of New Amsterdam, now known as New York City.

I chose the wrong excursion to visit this city. I boarded an open air catamaran and slowly made our way under seven bridges seeing the decaying city from the water. Other than being extremely hot and uncomfortable, this “cruise” was uneventful. The highlight was visiting a former 18th century jailhouse that has been “converted” into a shopping “mall”. The former cells now house small independent shops that sell the usual tourist junk. I am sure that Recife is an interesting place….I just didn’t see it! So, now it’s on to Fortaleza!

Salvador da Bahia, Brazil

February 18, 2008


Known for many years as “Bahia”, Salvador’s full name is Sao Salvador da baja de Todos os Santos, meaning “Holy Savior of All Saints Bay”. This unique city is one of the oldest in Brazil and the country’s third most populous. The vast majority of the population in Salvador is of Black African origin and the African cultural aspects are evident everywhere in the music, art and cuisine. Pelourinho, the historical center of Salvador, is host to many historical monuments dating from the 17th through the 19th centuries and is a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site. The colorful old houses and the winding streets add a rich character to this part of town. Once a very wealthy community, the colonial palaces, churches and convents are magnificent in their gilded splendor. When it comes to carnival celebrations…Salvador has no rival. According to the Guinness Book of Records, the Carnival of Salvador de Bahia is the biggest street party on the planet. For even days, almost two million people join the city’s street celebrations.

Leaving the ship we saw the Lacerda’s Elevator (a large funicular) that links the upper and lower city. We took in the views from Baia de Todos Santos (All Saints Bay). On a walking tour of Pelourinho we visited the grand Jesuit Church…the cathedral…where a mass was being prepared to celebrate the 200 anniversary of the university that sits just beside the church on the square. We walked further to see the incredible church on the opposite side of the square…there are some 365…count ‘em….churches in this city. We saw the pillory where slaves and prisoners were once punished in full view of the gentry.

We rode past impressive high-rise condos that overlook the harbor (one even had it’s own cable car to take its residents to their yachts. We visited the Farol da Barra lighthouse.

The tour was called….” A city of Contrasts”…and Salvador is indeed that. We were warned to be very careful….this is not the safest city in Brazil…and indeed, we were “escorted” by two armed police as we traveled through the city. I was impressed by the wealth of the wealthy and the poorness of the poor. This is truly a country of “haves” and “have-nots”…and Salvador underscores this contrast. It is an interesting city…one that I am glad to have had the chance to see…and one that I will probably not visit again.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

February 15, 2008

Rio!...Rio de Janeiro!!!! What a city! The “River of January” is indeed one of those special places in the world that everyone should see! This former capital of Brazil is situated around a spectacular natural harbor ringed by beautiful and famous beaches such as Copacabana and Ipanema. Rio is equally famous for its Carnival celebrations (which we missed by a few days!) samba music, the giant statue of Jesus, Known as Christ the Redeemer atop Corcovado mountain (recently named one of the new Seven Wonders of the World) and Sugarloaf mountain with is cable car. Rio is also home to the world’s two largest forests inside an urban area. A city of contrasts where the very wealthy can afford the splendors of Rio, the city also has an extremely large slum area (known as Favalas ..sp?). Curiously many of these slums overlook the fashionable areas. Even with such contrast, the 6 million residents seem to have worked out a way to live and work together in this exciting and colorful city.

We spent two colorful days in this exciting city. The first started with an exciting cable car ride to the top of Sugarloaf Mountain. The cable car has an intermediate stop and moves at a steady and even pace. Once on top we had a grand view of the exciting city below. (Forget the fog…or was it mist?...or smog?...it was still a grand view!). Many harbors and neighborhoods with large and inviting beaches meandered in and out of the many green covered stone outcroppings. It is easy to see how settlers first decided to make this home….as there are so many inviting coves and beaches and protected areas. Such great views.

Lunch was special. We went to a “barbeque” restaurant….a very posh place where tuxedo clad waiters sat us at long tables. Huge platters of fried potatoes, potato salad, vegetables suddenly appeared. And then “they” came…the men with the meat. With large skewers, with every cut of meat you can imagine, these men seem to always be at your side carving yet another piece of succulent meat from his skewer. We each had a small pair of tongs at our place and we used these tongs to retrieve the bounty. Drinks flowed as did sweets…it was a memorable and delicious dining experience…worth coming to Rio for!

We made our way to Corcovado the home of the Christ the Redeemer statute that is the symbol of Rio. We boarded an open-air Swiss-style funicular to slowly make our way to the top of this huge stone outcropping. Along the way we were serenaded by a Samba band that kept every foot on the train keeping time with the exotic and erotic beat of the music. At the top, 220 steps (or a fast elevator) eventually deposited us at the base of two fast-moving escalators and voila! There he was…this huge concrete statue of Christ….overlooking the city! Clouds continued to surround us…so dense at times that you couldn’t see your hand in front of your face…and then just as quickly they would be gone and blue skies appeared for a quick click of the camera to try and capture the statue before it would be once again hidden in the mist! If I thought the view from Sugarloaf was spectacular…the view from Corcovado was even better!

Our drive back to the ship took us along the beaches…grand and beautiful beaches with thousands of colorful umbrellas and beach chairs for the thousands of bronze beauties. What an amazing site of humanity…..one bikini was slighter than the next…and I now know where the Speedo Company does most of its business. Most of the bodies in these scant get-ups were beautiful…but, trust me…not all! There is nothing more beautiful than a bronze body on the beach….but, likewise, there is nothing uglier than some bronze bodies on the beach….I am so glad I saw it.

What I will remember most from the beaches were the exciting sand castles. Many artists line the sidewalk and create the most amazing sand creations you have ever seen. And since Carnival had just ended, the guide said that there were even more of these fabulous sand creations than normal. My only regret is that it was too late for me to walk along the beach and capture more of these on film.

That night, back on the ship, we were entertained with a very lively and colorful “samba school”. Feathers and feathers and more feathers…and only a few sequins and you have it. What bodies! What rhythm…what costumes! It was an amazing experience…and with only fifteen or twenty performers the place was moving. I can’t imagine what it is really like to be in the city when Carnival is happening. It seems that there are some 12 “official” Samba Schools, comprised of some 3,000-5,000 members. Can you imagine 45,000-50,000 people all in feathers and all moving to the beat of the Samba moving through the city…what it must be like!!!!

The next morning we took advantage of the H. Stern driver program. H. Stern is like the Tiffany’s of South America. Headquartered in Rio, H. Stern offers the Prinsendam passengers a “private” car with guide and driver for the morning or day. My friends Rudi, Marguerite, George and Isabelle and I took advantage of this offer and with a very nice Mercedes van went on a private tour of the impressive botanical garden. We rode by the Samba street….a special stadium designed by Oscar Niemeyer, that literally took over a 8-10 block street and has permanent stadium seating for 80,000 people. We ended up, as we expected, at the H. Stern building. After drinks and warm greetings we were escorted to the “factory” where we donned head sets (recorded in over 25 languages!) and set out on a short walking tour watching the artisans create the spectacular jewels. It was fascinating and most informative. At the end of the tour the five of us were separated and ushered into the sales room where we were seated at luxurious desks to be shown tray after tray of rings, necklaces, bracelets and other “bobbles”. I let my “guide” know quickly that I was not interested in purchasing anything…and was just that quickly “dismissed” to continue along the “tour” going from one showroom to another…each with a “guide” and each lower in price and quality. As I made my way thru this labyrinth of buying opportunity I finally found myself in the lower level in a nice but affordable souvenir shop…these Stern folks don’t miss a chance to sell you something. Behind that smart shop was a lounge where I settled to enjoy a great cup of strong Brazilian coffee and sat to wait for Rudi and Marguerite and George and Isabelle. Rudi had already told us that he was looking for a “bobble” for Marguerite…so I knew it might be a while before they appeared. It didn’t take George and Isabelle long to appear and together we settled in to enjoy the lounge. Luckily there was a large screen television where they were showing the most amazing video of the Carnival…all 50,000 people marching in full regalia down the Samba Street. We watched for over an hour or so, thoroughly entertained with the most creative floats and costumes you can imagine. Rudi and Marguerite appeared…and Yes! She was carrying a tasteful little white bag with a beautiful ring. A good time was had by all….especially Marguerite.

As we sailed from Rio, the Captain gave us a most spectacular send off to this most spectacular city. When, or when…will I return!

Montevideo, Uruguay

February 12, 2008

Sailing through the night, we traveled east on the Rio de la Plata River that separates Argentina from Uruguay. One of the largest or widest in the world, the river measures over 130 miles at its widest point and unless you knew otherwise you would think that you are in the open sea.

We arrived early in Montevideo (pronounced Monte-V-Day-O!....hard for me to say!). This chief port, capital and largest city is the only city with a population of over a million. The tour brochures will tell you that Montevideo is one of the most important harbors in all of South America and that the city is a delightful blend of Latin American, European and African cultures. Let me say that I am very pleased that I have had the chance to see the city…but I am not sure that it is so “delightful” or that I will ever come back. Perhaps it was a case of visiting Buenos Aires first…and if I had come to Montevideo first I might have had a better impression. Overall, I found the city to be rather shabby and uninviting. Granted, there are beautiful beaches which are lined with seemingly interesting and well-built high-rise condos…but, overall, it is just not one of my favorite places.

A city tour showed us the large Legislative Palace…an impressive large marble structure with beautiful stained glass ceilings and colorful moldings. We visited Prado Park, noted for its historical monuments and attractive rose gardens. We rode through a rather European looking community of small single-family houses that the guide was most pleased to show us, thinking that we would be impressed…we weren’t! A final stop at Independence Plaza gave us a close-up look at the Government House and other impressive, if neglected, public buildings.

I am not one to be negative….but I am realistic…so, forgive me Montevideo…but I will not be back!

Buenos Aires

February 11, 2008

Wow! I have been to Buenos Aires….a place that I have always wanted to visit. To be sure, I wasn’t disappointed.

Today was one of our three Virtuoso Days….a special day hosted by Chuck and Joan, our Virtuoso hosts. My great travel agent, Judy Brannon, and her agency are “Virtuoso” travel agents, thus I get this perk….and, as usual, this day with them was very special.

We started our exciting day by traveling along the grand Avenue 9th of July. This grand boulevard which is double the size of the Champs E’elsais (I don’t know how to spell it and am not going to take the time to look it up!!!!) in Paris. And what a grand street it is. With countless cafes and buildings and monuments and shops and museums all along…coming to this grand street would be reason enough to come to Buenos Aires.

We soon found ourselves at the Plaza de Mayo – the very heart of the nation. A white pyramid, symbol of peace and liberty stand in the center of this plaza and serves as a gathering place for those wanting to protest any cause. Mothers, for instance, rallied at the site since the “Dirty Wars” of the 1970’s when many of their sons simply vanished, ostensibly victims of a brutal and corrupt regime. Interestingly enough, many say that the conflict in the Falkland Islands was started as a diversion from these infamous disappearances.

At the far end of the plaza, Casa Rosada (a pink building, thus the name????) is the presidential palace. From the balcony facing the squre, Juan and Evita Peron appeared before crowds of supporters in the square. It was from this same balcony that Madonna sang her famous song in the movie, Evita.

We passed by the Theatre Colon which is under restoration and will celebrate it’s 100th anniversary later this year when this work is completed. Traveling through expensive residential areas we traversed through a huge public park that reminded me of Central Park in New York. Many man-made lakes filled with families in small paddle boats, large expanses of green where pick-up soccer games were being played, band stands, street vendors, brilliant-colored umbrellas over fast food stands….anything and everything that one would expect in such a large and public and well-used park.

One of the more colorful stops we made was in the “Roca” district…at least that is what I think it is called. A small “village” of small corrugated tin buildings that kind of stack on top of one another are all painted in a rainbow of bright vivid colors. Teal blue, orange, red, navy and green all covered the SAME building. The area, close to the very large soccer stadium, boast many tree-lined walking streets, open air cafes, street musicians…and TANGO dancers….people that appear to simply be enjoying their afternoon, having a coffee or a drink and enjoying a sensual dance with one another….so colorful. One enterprising couple was posing for pictures with tourists….and my friends George and Rudi both took advantage of the scantily clad dancer, complete with her ripped fish-net hose, wrapping her legs around them and planting a large red kiss on their check. It was well worth the couple of dollars I gave her for the photo.

But without question the highlight of the day was our visit to “El Zanjon”. Some historians point to the Zanjon de Granados Ravines as the site of the first settlement of Buenos Aires in 1536. A section of the old Zanjon was found under an historical 19th century building and a very far-sited couple purchased the property and has, for the last 25 years, spent untold money restoring this treasure. From the street, you think you are entering just an ordinary building, but once inside a whole new world opens up. With meticulous care and attention to detail we were escorted through a series of courtyards, and balconies and even tunnels where this former “city” thrived. The owners were our hosts and spent an hour of so showing us their prize and explaining, through photos, the hard work that they and numerous archeologists, architects, and designers that have worked to un-earth the history. The building is now used as a site for numerous events….what an imaginative way to preserve and restore such an important building. Thanks to Virtuoso we were able to enjoy this great spot complete with a small cocktail party including the most erotic couple tangoing….what a place!

Our day ended with a visit to the Cementerior Del Norte, better known as Recoleta Cemetery, the burial ground that features some of the most opulent tombs you have even seen. Many of the mausoleums were designed by famous artists and no less than 70 are national monuments. Among the most famous is Evita Peron’s tomb. Some members of Argentine society still resent the fact that she, a less than “society” person, is buried in the graveyard. I couldn’t but be reminded of my favorite TV show, Amazing Race, when the little person, (what was her name?) used her size to get a guard to take her to Evita’s tomb for her next clue. It was fun to see it, even if I had to shoo off hoards of cats to get a picture.

So, I have been to Buenos Aires…and I certainly hope to come back. It is an exciting city that bustles with energy and lively colorful people.

Iguazau Falls

February 10, 2008

When we boarder the bus to make our way to the airport in Buenos Aries for the 1 ½ hour flight to Iguazau Falls our guide enthusiastically exclaimed: “You are on your way to see one of the most amazing sites in the world!”. I thought to myself….sure! I am sure it is nice…but one of the most amazing sites in the world…I doubt it!!!!

Well, was I ever wrong! Iguazau Falls is indeed one of the most amazing sites I have ever seen. Situated in the region of Argentina where Paraguay and Brazil all connect, this incredible waterfall is the largest in the world. Apparently Niagara Falls has more water per second, and Victoria Falls is the tallest, but the widest is Iguazau Falls….with almost two miles of cascading falls in the middle of a vast and dense rain forest.

By luck I drew a window seat in the plane…something that I don’t normally enjoy but in this case was pleased to have. I thought it would be great to spot the falls from the air. As we made our descent through thick rain clouds…they don’t call it a rain forest for nothing….I scanned the dense greenness and spotted two man-made buildings…hotels I assumed. Close by I saw a rising cloud only to realize that it was the mist from the falls. It seemed to go on forever…and it excited me to realize that we were indeed in for a treat.

After a short bus ride we were at the entrance to the national park on the Argentinean side. This impressive facility, built only a few years ago, was well layout with the appropriate buildings and services. Blue wrist bands were attached and clear plastic ponchos were distributed as we queued for a seat on a small-gauged railway that would take us to two different viewing spots. Thinking that the poncho would just make me too hot, I decided not to put it on….what a mistake! We had hardly left the station that the heavens opened up and as fate would have it I was seated on the side of the small train and was quickly getting wet. Luckily the first stop was not too far away, so while there my fellow passengers helped me don my poncho, pulling it over my backpack. (The ship had warned us to bring a change of clothes and a towel and other “precautions” so I was laden down with my well-used back pack) The poncho was not made for a large man AND a backpack so after a rather comical session we were able to get me into the poncho. I looked and felt like I was in a sauna wrapped in Saran Wrap. My only regret is that I didn’t get a picture of that!

Eventually we arrived at the station for the Devil’s Throat section of the falls and we made our way in the rain over an almost two mile raised walkway. Although this “bridge” was very sturdy it was difficult walking in the small sections of an open metal grate that were separated by very slippery metal strips. The “pace” or gate of the panels were just off a bit from a normal step, so no matter how careful you were you would eventually hit one of those separators and thus be extremely careful to not slip. Thankfully there was a sturdy hand rail that kept me from falling more than once. I was most concerned for so many of my fellow passengers, some of the more feeble ones who probably should have opted not to take this trip. As we continued our precarious walk the noise began to rise. It was, of course, the roar…and I do mean ROAR….of the falls ahead.

Nothing could have prepared me for what I saw! Hundreds of thousands of gallons of water cascading over steep deep cliffs many covered with thick algae or moss. It is just something that is impossible to describe. The mist was almost blinding…cooling….and wet! The noise was deafening. There was even a certain aroma to the air that I have never experienced before…AND it WAS truly, as our guide predicted one of the most amazing things I have ever seen!

Our next stop was for a delightful and filling buffet lunch. By this time the sun was out and….as was the heat and humidity. Having long since ditched my plastic poncho I was still wet, this time from the humidity! Another walk on another metal bridge….this one much shorter…brought us to a somewhat lower section of the falls where we were awed by an array of rainbows that seem to sprout up from many different vantage points. I have never seen so many colorful rainbows in one place. Our guide commented that occasional he has seen a rainbow encircle the sun….is that possible? Regardless, another phase --- another look---- at this remarkable natural wonder! It was here that our guide reminded us that the movie “The Mission” with Robert DeNiro (sp?) or was it Jeremy Irons…or both??? was filmed here. I remember seeing that movie years ago and being impressed with the scenery. Hopefully the ship’s library will have a copy and I can see it again soon.

Without question, my adventure to Iguazau Falls has given me a memory that no matter when or where I see another waterfall I will have memories of the sounds…the mist….the rainbows….the beauty of one of the most amazing places in the world!

Stanley, Falkland Islands

February 7, 2008

Well there is Bad News and Good News! The Bad News is that leaving South Georgia we sailed for two days into the roughest waters I have ever experienced at sea. The ship was really rocking and rolling…far more than just “lumpy” as one of my pals calls a rough day! The Good News is that I didn’t get sick. That may be partially due to the fact that I was in bed for the worst part of this rough part and my cabin is exactly in the middle of the ship….vertically and horizontally….so I was in the most “stable” part of the ship I could be in! Somehow; the movement of the ship is easier for me when I am lying down. I think it is like being rocked. That said, I hardly slept a wink. The sounds of the ship banging against the high waves, the moans and groans…the glasses moving on the counter….all of it kept me just on the verge of a sound sleep. I couldn’t help but think of the old wooden vessels that sailed these waters before and marveled how they were able to negotiate such turbulent seas. I also thought of the men of the Endurance, Shackleton’s ship, that was literally crushed to destruction as it was “frozen” in the ice floes. In reading the accounts of that adventure, almost every man commented on the sounds of the ship as it met its untimely fate. After my rough night at sea I can totally relate.

Arriving early in the morning we were anchored outside Stanley in an area called the “Roads of Port William” near York point on the northeastern side of the Falkland Islands. Port Stanley itself is a much protected harbor but alas the entrance to the harbor is too narrow for the Prinsendam and the water too shallow, so we were forced to stay outside the harbor….outside in the cold and blowing wind! For more than two hours after anchoring there was great debate on the part of the Captain if we would be able to use the tenders to go ashore. But finally, the decision was made and the bravest of us made our way down to the tender dock to make the two mile ride into the protection of the harbor. As is the case so many times, all the fear was ill-founded and the tender ride turned out to be one of the smoothest we have had. Funny how that happens!

Stanley is a colorful place….one that I will never forget because of the memorable local architecture. Small “monopoly” styled houses dot the coast line. These small cottages are all clustered on what appears to be three tiers or terraces overlooking the harbor and each house is more colorful than the next. A bright yellow roof covered brilliant orange walls on one house while its immediate neighbor was vivid blue with a red-orange roof. Every color you can imagine was juxtaposed against the other…and together they offered a most picturesque and festive welcome.

After a quick tour (quick because it is so small….there are only 2,000 people that live on the entire group of islands) of the “largest” and “governing center” of The Falklands, Stanley, we headed out into the “camp” area of the East Island toward a large privately owned sheep farm. On our way we passed acre after acre of fenced and protected fields marked with large colorful warnings about the mine fields. It seems that there are thousands of land mines left over from the famous Falklands War of 1982.. The fiercely- fought war, between Argentina and Great Britain, lasted 74 days and will never be forgotten by the Falklanders. Understandably, there is absolutely no love or respect whatsoever for the Argentineans today.

We marveled the rolling hills and low craggy mountains and could only imagine the troops as they fought against one another in the vast open expanses. Occasionally we would come across the remains of a downed helicopter. The landscape is rather eerie anyway with absolutely not a tree in sight anywhere. It seems that trees just can’t exist in the harsh and constant cold winds that cross the island. We also were intrigued by the “rock rivers” that flow throughout the islands. Hugh bolder filled rock flows that have been here for eons add to the overall bleakness and vastness of this most remote place.

Traveling for almost an hour in this unusual landscape on the one …one!...road that has only been here for four years we couldn’t imagine where we were headed. Not a house, a tree, a person….nothing in sight for miles and miles and miles. Eventually, after stopping to open countless gates in the often fenced area (we were traveling through various “farms” as we made our way north) we eventually came to the coastline and in the far distance we saw a small cluster of while buildings with bright red roofs…our destination.

The “Long Island Farm” is some 25,000 acres of rocky grassy farm land and is the home of the Watsons: Glenda and Mike. These hard-working people have worked this land for almost thirty years raising their family of three in almost total isolation. The have a flock of sheep that numbers 3,000…it takes four acres of land for one sheep to have enough grass to survive!....60 head of cows, chickens, cats, goats, horses and a dozen or so “working” dogs. They grow all their own food, cut peat for heating fuel and work from sunrise to sunset with apparent passion and glee.

Glenda and Mike greeted us with handshakes and hugs like we were long-lost friends. With cold winds blowing so hard that it made it difficult for us to walk, we made our way to the peat bog where Mike and his “neighbor” Pete, (his farm abuts the Watson’s but his house is more than forty miles away!) showed us how they “cut” the peat from the bog for their fuel. It takes some 125 cubic yards of peat to burn for a year. The peat has to be cut and dried for a year…so what we saw harvested will be used in 2010. Blocks of the wet stuff are cut into about nine inch cubes which, when dried, will be about half that size. They burn their stove twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week, 365 days a year. This stove heats their small house, heats the water that constantly flows from a mountain stream, and also cooks their food.

We watched a great demonstration of the dogs at work as they herded and cornered a small collection of wooly sheep. Some of these dogs are over 15 years old and are as fit and agile as puppies and seem to love their work. These skilled and well trained animals performed a ballet of sorts as they control the sheep…all led by quiet voice commands, a silent whistle and hand singles from Glenda and Mike.

Next we witnessed the shearing of two nervous sheep. The operation moved quickly and painlessly as they lost their year’s growth of thick wooly fleece. I really felt sorry for these poor animals that, once sheared, stood there shivering…no doubt from cold but equally out of embarrassment to be “nude” in front of so many strangers.

Tea and cookies followed in the small quaint….and warm!...house followed by a demonstration of the “gear” …not tack!....of their working horses.

We all left this wonderful place with a very special warm spot in our hearts for our new “friends”, Glenda and Mike. We were all awed by their love for one another, for their land, and for their lifestyle. My only regret is that I forgot my camera and thus do not have a record of our visit to their charming…if isolated…farm.

So, I am most pleased that the Captain was able to make the decision to let us go ashore on the Falklands….what a special day….what a special place!

Grytviken, Cumberland Bay , South Georgia

February 4, 2008

As we left Elephant Island in Antarctica from the exact same place that Shackleton left his men as he set out for South Georgia to find help, I couldn’t marvel at his bravery. Here we are in a huge beautifully equipped and comfortable sailing ship and there he was in a small lifeboat that his carpenter had made a rough wooden cover for! What a contrast.

We sailed for two days in the beautiful Scotia Sea…as smooth as glass…escorted all the way by huge…and I mean HUGE….icebergs. Bigger than the ship these bergs floated by us like silent abandoned cities. Where did these big bergs come from? And where are they going? Our onboard expert commented that he had once been with a colleague in a small plane when they decided to land and take off from one of these giant ice cubes. This is certainly the land of adventure.

Throughout our two days at sea we learned about our next port of call…South Georgia. This is the exact spot that Shackleton and his two or three companions arrived to find help for his men. Their actual landing spot was on the other side of the island and they had to endure three or four days of strenuous hike and climb over steep mountains to reach Grytyiken. Unbelievable

Grytyiken, a former whaling village is under the process of being returned to the purest and most pristine place that it can be. We sat through several different lectures and film strips, signed forms, and agreed to a stringent set of rules and regulations before we were allowed to leave the ship. It seems that we are very lucky to be going ashore. In an effort to preserve this special place there are few people allowed on the island…let alone large cruise ships….so we feel privileged.

We arrived to a snowy welcome. Pulling my draperies back I could see nothing….and then realized that it was snow! Thick white snow the size of quarters was blanketing the close mountain sides. The normal red roofs of the few buildings were white! I quickly made my way to the Lido deck on the 11th floor to see the snow up close and personal and to view the village from that perspective. How strange to see the pool and deck covered with snow…AND to see scores of the Indonesian crew playing like ten year olds….most of whom have never seen snow before. They were laughing and taking pictures…making snow balls and just having a good time. What fun!

Finally we made our way on shore, where the first order of business was to have our shoes scrubbed in some strong disinfectant to make sure that we were bringing nothing to the shore. We made three stops on our three hour visit…the small museum that showed the history of the island including the whaling industry as well as numerous artifacts and memorabilia of the various Antarctic expeditions including those of Shackleton and others. We visited the quaint church built in l917. It was in this church that the body of Shackleton laid in rest before his burial in the close-by cemetery. It seems that Shackleton had returned to South Georgia in 1922 aboard the HMS Quest hoping to circumnavigate Antarctica. He had suffered an apparent heart attack in Rio, the last stop before Grytviken, but characteristically refused medical treatment or examination. The night afater he arrived at South Georgia Island, he called the ships’ surgeon with complaints of chest pain. He suffered a massive heart attack and was buried in the small cemetery overlooking the harbor. Unlike others in the cemetery whose bodies were buried pointing east…Shackleton’s body was buried pointing South toward Antarctica.

Scientific work continues on South Georgia today under the control of the British. It is certainly one of those special places that few have had the chance to enjoy. And even though it was snowing we did indeed enjoy our short but informative stay in South Georgia.

Antarctica

January 29-Feb 1, 2008


Incredible!
Unbelievable!
Memorable!
Vast!
White!
Blue!
Magical!
Spiritual!
Spectacular!


After a while you simply run out of adjectives to describe this special place. What can I say? It truly is one of those places that even though you have seen photograph after photograph and film clip after film clip you there is no way to truly capture the specialness of being here.

We have been extremely lucky. As we left Ushuaia we made our way to Cape Horn….the end of the world….and eventually into the Drake Passage. We were all prepared for rough seas as we had heard tales of high unusual waves, and indeed, last year’s sailing of the Prinsendam experienced 60 foot waves. Our passage was smooth and easy with only a slight sea that was no worse than anything else we have experienced before.

As we sailed we had two naturalists on board to explain what we were going to see. The special aquatic birds, the seals, the ice bergs, the glaciers….each has a whole body of knowledge with incredible research….so much to know. Luckily these men are most articulate and we have enjoyed having them aboard.

As we began to sail through the various islands and harbors of this vast continent (more than half again as large as the US!) we were soon surrounded by huge ice bergs, slowing moving glaciers, high snow-covered mountains. Huge flocks of penguins covered the rocks nesting in the bright sun or swimming like dolphins in the surrounding seas. Fur Seals and Elephant Seals blubbered together, one seemingly on top of the other while beautiful and large birds soared overhead. Just unbelievable!

One morning 10-12 naturalist from the Palmer Station boarded the ship. One of three US stations, these scientists are studying everything from aquatic life to the atmosphere. There are even two “artists”…one a writer and another a watercolorist who live the summer months in this isolated spot. It was fascinating to hear of their life and work and to share in their enthusiasm for this special place. I couldn’t help but be impressed with the young age of these brave and hearty souls as well as their apparent knowledge and ability to share their passion.

One afternoon the captain spotted a small iceberg floating near the ship and he slowed to a snail’s pace. As we sailed along side we could clearly see a pod of fur seals sunning on the berg. A small indention in the berg had created a pool where the seals would go for short swims. Thirty or so penguins stood at attention watching the seals frolic apparently oblivious to us as we passed by. It all seemed almost artificial…so so picturesque.

We all enjoyed a screening of the movie “March of the Penguins” which became even more real as we looked out the window to see thousands of penguins swimming like porpoises (sp?) in the calm seas. Just after the screening I stepped our on the deck as we sailed past Elephant Island where Shackleton’s men were left while he went for help back in the early 1900’s. Although it was 10PM the sun was just setting. There was a slight mist in the air that made the sky and the ice and snow-covered mountains and the sea blend together almost become one. It was one of those extraordinary moments that touch your soul. What a special place Antarctica is and how privileged I feel to have experienced it first hand.