Antarctica

January 29-Feb 1, 2008


Incredible!
Unbelievable!
Memorable!
Vast!
White!
Blue!
Magical!
Spiritual!
Spectacular!


After a while you simply run out of adjectives to describe this special place. What can I say? It truly is one of those places that even though you have seen photograph after photograph and film clip after film clip you there is no way to truly capture the specialness of being here.

We have been extremely lucky. As we left Ushuaia we made our way to Cape Horn….the end of the world….and eventually into the Drake Passage. We were all prepared for rough seas as we had heard tales of high unusual waves, and indeed, last year’s sailing of the Prinsendam experienced 60 foot waves. Our passage was smooth and easy with only a slight sea that was no worse than anything else we have experienced before.

As we sailed we had two naturalists on board to explain what we were going to see. The special aquatic birds, the seals, the ice bergs, the glaciers….each has a whole body of knowledge with incredible research….so much to know. Luckily these men are most articulate and we have enjoyed having them aboard.

As we began to sail through the various islands and harbors of this vast continent (more than half again as large as the US!) we were soon surrounded by huge ice bergs, slowing moving glaciers, high snow-covered mountains. Huge flocks of penguins covered the rocks nesting in the bright sun or swimming like dolphins in the surrounding seas. Fur Seals and Elephant Seals blubbered together, one seemingly on top of the other while beautiful and large birds soared overhead. Just unbelievable!

One morning 10-12 naturalist from the Palmer Station boarded the ship. One of three US stations, these scientists are studying everything from aquatic life to the atmosphere. There are even two “artists”…one a writer and another a watercolorist who live the summer months in this isolated spot. It was fascinating to hear of their life and work and to share in their enthusiasm for this special place. I couldn’t help but be impressed with the young age of these brave and hearty souls as well as their apparent knowledge and ability to share their passion.

One afternoon the captain spotted a small iceberg floating near the ship and he slowed to a snail’s pace. As we sailed along side we could clearly see a pod of fur seals sunning on the berg. A small indention in the berg had created a pool where the seals would go for short swims. Thirty or so penguins stood at attention watching the seals frolic apparently oblivious to us as we passed by. It all seemed almost artificial…so so picturesque.

We all enjoyed a screening of the movie “March of the Penguins” which became even more real as we looked out the window to see thousands of penguins swimming like porpoises (sp?) in the calm seas. Just after the screening I stepped our on the deck as we sailed past Elephant Island where Shackleton’s men were left while he went for help back in the early 1900’s. Although it was 10PM the sun was just setting. There was a slight mist in the air that made the sky and the ice and snow-covered mountains and the sea blend together almost become one. It was one of those extraordinary moments that touch your soul. What a special place Antarctica is and how privileged I feel to have experienced it first hand.