Salvador da Bahia, Brazil

February 18, 2008


Known for many years as “Bahia”, Salvador’s full name is Sao Salvador da baja de Todos os Santos, meaning “Holy Savior of All Saints Bay”. This unique city is one of the oldest in Brazil and the country’s third most populous. The vast majority of the population in Salvador is of Black African origin and the African cultural aspects are evident everywhere in the music, art and cuisine. Pelourinho, the historical center of Salvador, is host to many historical monuments dating from the 17th through the 19th centuries and is a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site. The colorful old houses and the winding streets add a rich character to this part of town. Once a very wealthy community, the colonial palaces, churches and convents are magnificent in their gilded splendor. When it comes to carnival celebrations…Salvador has no rival. According to the Guinness Book of Records, the Carnival of Salvador de Bahia is the biggest street party on the planet. For even days, almost two million people join the city’s street celebrations.

Leaving the ship we saw the Lacerda’s Elevator (a large funicular) that links the upper and lower city. We took in the views from Baia de Todos Santos (All Saints Bay). On a walking tour of Pelourinho we visited the grand Jesuit Church…the cathedral…where a mass was being prepared to celebrate the 200 anniversary of the university that sits just beside the church on the square. We walked further to see the incredible church on the opposite side of the square…there are some 365…count ‘em….churches in this city. We saw the pillory where slaves and prisoners were once punished in full view of the gentry.

We rode past impressive high-rise condos that overlook the harbor (one even had it’s own cable car to take its residents to their yachts. We visited the Farol da Barra lighthouse.

The tour was called….” A city of Contrasts”…and Salvador is indeed that. We were warned to be very careful….this is not the safest city in Brazil…and indeed, we were “escorted” by two armed police as we traveled through the city. I was impressed by the wealth of the wealthy and the poorness of the poor. This is truly a country of “haves” and “have-nots”…and Salvador underscores this contrast. It is an interesting city…one that I am glad to have had the chance to see…and one that I will probably not visit again.