Devil’s Island, French Guiana

March 4, 2008


Devil’s Island is a small rocky islet in the Atlantic Ocean in northern French Guiana. It was part of a French penal settlement in use from 1852 to 1946. The prisoners were classed as habitual criminals who were permitted to work; political prisoners and criminals who were permitted limited liberty; and felons who were imprisoned at hard labor. If a prisoner was sentenced to a term of less than eight years, he had to spend an equal period of time in French Guiana to earn money to pay his way home. If the sentence was more than eight years, he had to remain for life.

From what I saw as we toured the ruins, death would have been a blessing. There was something very dramatic about this beautiful tropical island with its lush green palm trees and warm breezes and the small dank and dark cells in which the prisoners simply existed. How they must have felt as they finally reached the place after sailing from France in the hull of small ships....only to reach the place and be “installed” in these small ...very small...slots where they spent 23 hours a day. I can’t imagine. And, to make sure that they didn’t try to escape the jailers used the corpses of dead prisoners (an average of one or two a day!) to feed the local sharks that surround the small three islands that make up Devil’s Island. Dreadful.

I was reminded that the very good movie and book...Papillion was based on this island....I must rent it and see it again!

Although very hot and very humid....we took a leisurely stroll around the island. Monkeys and strange colorful rodents scampered as we walked by. Numerous frogs, some caimans, and tons of lizards also greeted us. We visited the small cemetery where children and an occasional Warden were buried. Many of the buildings are in ruin...but others are still being used. There is a small hotel...a quaint chapel complete with impressive murals painted by prisioners....a hospital in ruin....and small houses used by the jailers. It was a most pleasant day...if eerie.

I couldn’t help but notice that even in the most dire places...the cells.....someone had taken the time to add some “decoration” around the doors to each cell. It seemed so curious to me to think that here in these small and horrible cells that there was some hope and some “joy” if you will with a painted pattern surrounding the doors....human nature seeks beauty. What a commentary!

So...the days of this first cruise are slowly coming to a close. It is hard to believe that it has gone so quickly....and soon we will embark on the next phase....another part of the world.

In the meantime, tomorrow we dock in Barbados. I have never been there and am looking forward to another of our “Virtuoso” days. Stay tuned!