Banjul, The Gambia

March 29, 2008

Banjul was formerly known as Bathurst, after Henry Bathurst, the secretary of the British Colonial Office. A trading post and base for British attempts at suppressing slave trade in the early 19th century, it became Banjul in 1973. It is the capital of The Gambia, officially The Republic of The Gambia, the smallest country on the African continental mainland.

My day was a bit disappointing. I decided to take a “river cruise” up the Gambia river to visit the Island of Juffureh home of the slave trading station of Albreda...home of Kunta Kinteh, made famous by Alex Haley in Roots. I was expecting an experience along a small and quaint river where I would see small “African” villages along the coast and enjoy a relaxing day....wrong! The Gambia River is a very very wide river. In fact once we left the dock we could just as well been on the open ocean. There was nothing...nothing!....to see....and to make matters worse, the skies were very overcast and “heavy”...dusty?....cloudy and foggy. It was difficult to see the difference in the water and the sky....almost like being in a “whiteout” in snow country. So here I was....on a small tug-like boat for three hours...count ‘em...three hours!...in this whiteness. Granted, the crew of the boat was most friendly....they served a delicious and plentiful lunch and couldn’t have been more pleasant and helpful...but it was a long and boring ride.

Once we arrived on the island, we had a hot and difficult fifteen minute trod along a sandy path lined with chanting children.....”Welcome, Welcome, and Welcome” they chanted and clapped with small tins placed in front for our “donations”. We were surrounded by “security” guards to keep the small kids from bombarding us, begging. It was a bit overwhelming. I must admit, however that I will always remember this one enterprising child...about 6 or 7, this cute boy had covered himself with green leaves....like a bushman....and did a charming dance in his camouflage begging for our money. Once we passed his group and ventured along the path to be surrounded by another such group, you could see the young boy and his entourage running ahead to re-establish a post as though they were “new” and different. They even had a different “pot” to accept our donations.

Eventually we made our way to the local museum....the Smithsonian it wasn’t! A few photographs and displays....a couple of iron chains...and some sad displays....all inside a small and airless and dark space....hot hot hot! Not a pleasant experience!

We made our way to a small hut where Alex Haley’s cousin awaited us. We were told the story of Kunta Kinteh as this old lady tried to sell us a small printed book...for $20.00! or a certificate! ($5.00) to say we had been to visit her! Such a set-up....and a bit embarrassing for her...and no doubt, for Alex Haley!

The tribal chief, an elderly lady, greeted us next. Again, we were offered her certificate and given a chance to “contribute” to the welfare of her village.

We eventually made our way back through the gauntlet of begging children back to the ship for our three hour return trip through the whiteness.

It was not my best day....but, I consider that if you get 95% positive...a few not so positive days is acceptable....so be it! I have been to THE Gambia....now on to Ghana!