Punta Arenas, Chile

January 27, 2008

Punta Arenas, which means “Sands Point” in Spanish, is the most prominent settlement on the Strait of Magellan and the third largest city in the Patagonian Region. Punta Arenas is the southernmost city of its size in the world, although Ushuaia, Argentina (which we will visit tomorrow!) is actually located further south. Regardless, we are wayyyyyy south! I remember flying into this city several years ago with Margaret Neely as we made our way to the fabulous resort of Explora…but this time I was able to actually see something of this interesting town that, before the Panama Canal, was a most important port in the world picture.

Although a bit cloudy and misty…and chilly!...we made our way to La Cruz Hill for a panoramic view over Tierra del Fuego, an island in the Straits of Magellan. The lookout also gave us a perspective on this thriving city of around 125,000 people. I was fascinated by one small coffee shop located close to the overlook that was painted a myriad of pastel colors….each slope of the roof was a different color.

Leaving there we visited a small regional museum kept by the Salesian Friars where we saw exhibits of magnificent flora and fauna of the region as well as relics of the folklore and handicraft of the native Indian tribes such as the Yaganes, Onas, and Alacalufes. This museum was one of the best we have seen so far and really explained the life of the early native people who lived a very minimum life in this wind-swept district. Their only clothing was the furry skins of Guanaco that they wore fur side in and then decorated the outer skin with colorful patterns.

Driving to the town center, we stopped at the ever present town square, usually called Plaza de Armas Square. Punta Arenas’s Plaza de Armas boasts a large sculpture of Hernando de Magallanes. The square was filled with the usual stalls of locals selling their wares and I actually bought three very small penguins…so, I am now a shopper!

Perhaps the most interesting visit was to the Braun Menendez Museum which is the former home of a prominent sheep herding family. The house, built around 1901 was very ornate, filled with large marble bathrooms. The fabrics and tooled leather on the walls, the furniture, the light fixtures were all extraordinary particularly when you consider that all had to be imported to this southern spot. The family lived in this special home until the mid 1950’s and luckily much of it has been saved so we can see how these successful people lived years ago. Most interesting!

Equally fascinating was the most picturesque and interesting cemetery just on the edge of town. Named for Sarah Braun, whose home we visited, the cemetery was meticulously manicured and is home to massive mausoleums and crypts of the rich and famous as well as the “humble”, as our guide so diplomatically said. I was amazed to see so many Croatian families buried in this most impressive cemetery.

So, my second visit to Punta Arenas was very satisfying. And now we are off to Ushuaia, Argentina our jumping off point to Antarctica. I can’t wait!