Salalah, Oman
March 29, 2007
Salalah Oman provided the jumping off point for a long and exhilarating day visiting the Lost City of Ubar and The Rub Al Khali Desert.
I assume that Oman has the wealth of other Middle East countries…but to see Salalah following Dubai, made it seem like a small, prosperous, but unassuming village.
As we left the city on what was to be a three hour (each way!) four-wheel drive, I was surprised to see tall mountains in the distance. I falsely assumed that this was a desert country…and indeed it is…but there is a very impressive and massive mountain chain that follows the coast. Soon we were some 2,500 to 3,000 feet above sea level overlooking layer after layer of old and majestic mountains. I was reminded of being in Montana without the rushing river in the valley. The terrain leveled off…the mountains faded into the distance and soon we were truly in the middle of the desert….flat…dry…and endless desert! After a few miles we turned off the paved highway and began bouncing out way over a gravel/sand road that went from being outlined with small rocks to define it to a mere “path” that our skillful drivers seem to know. We dodged herds of donkeys and camels who decided that they owned this desert and they would take their time letting us pass. We saw and commented on the mirage effect that we saw in the distance. It was funny how thirsty I became in this vastness…with soaring temperatures and no water! We scared a huge lizard as he scurried across the sandy “road”. All of this leading us to a massive oasis miles from nowhere….the Lost City of Ubar! Discovered by US satellites in 1989, this once thriving city was the hub of the frankincense trade and dates back to 5,000 BC! (Frankincense is made from the sap of a small tree with shedding bark!) Although it has been designated as a World Heritage Site, the excavation is slow and seemingly less professional that I have seen in other ancient archeological digs. But it certainly underscores the value of water…the beauty of an oasis…and the rich history of this old country.
Moving further into the dessert and putting the cars into major four-wheel action we “skated”, slid, and jostled our way over the rolling sand dunes. Only one of nine cars got stuck and was quickly rescued by another land cruiser equipped with a heavy-duty winch. We soon left….in order!!! There were 9 cars in our caravan…and for some strange reason the drivers were insistent that they go in line and in order. It was comical watching these drivers teasing one another by trying to get “ahead” of their assigned number. Once we freed the stalled vehicle we went a few miles further until our guide…a very handsome man with a long flowing robe and beautifully tied paisley turban explained that we were in the middle of the “Empty Quarter”….a no-man’s land where there is never any water and never any life. The borders of Saudi Arabia and Oman and the other neighboring countries are rather vague in this region…and since there is really no reason to want to “claim” the area…it remains “empty”! Again, I was reminded of American’s west…of the moguls that you see on the snow slopes of Aspen…only this time, the “snow” was sand! Beautiful!
After a delicious “picnic” of fruit, boiled eggs, and sweet “cake” was enjoyed in a Bedouin camp we made our way back over the bumpy and sometimes frightening “road” just in time to make our sailing….we knew we would not be left behind as the captain’s wife, Applelonia (that’s her name!!!) was with us on the tour and she laughed that she had the key!
Seeing the deserts of Oman and experiencing the isolation of this exotic land for only a few hours makes me have great appreciation for those that have lived and worked here for centuries….including the camels, the “ships” of the desert. It was a great day to remember!
PS: Just a note to let all know that I am enjoying all the notes and cards that people sent with me on my trip. Each day as I open and read yet another, I am reminded of all the friends I have and how I can’t wait to see you all…thanks!
March 29, 2007
Salalah Oman provided the jumping off point for a long and exhilarating day visiting the Lost City of Ubar and The Rub Al Khali Desert.
I assume that Oman has the wealth of other Middle East countries…but to see Salalah following Dubai, made it seem like a small, prosperous, but unassuming village.
As we left the city on what was to be a three hour (each way!) four-wheel drive, I was surprised to see tall mountains in the distance. I falsely assumed that this was a desert country…and indeed it is…but there is a very impressive and massive mountain chain that follows the coast. Soon we were some 2,500 to 3,000 feet above sea level overlooking layer after layer of old and majestic mountains. I was reminded of being in Montana without the rushing river in the valley. The terrain leveled off…the mountains faded into the distance and soon we were truly in the middle of the desert….flat…dry…and endless desert! After a few miles we turned off the paved highway and began bouncing out way over a gravel/sand road that went from being outlined with small rocks to define it to a mere “path” that our skillful drivers seem to know. We dodged herds of donkeys and camels who decided that they owned this desert and they would take their time letting us pass. We saw and commented on the mirage effect that we saw in the distance. It was funny how thirsty I became in this vastness…with soaring temperatures and no water! We scared a huge lizard as he scurried across the sandy “road”. All of this leading us to a massive oasis miles from nowhere….the Lost City of Ubar! Discovered by US satellites in 1989, this once thriving city was the hub of the frankincense trade and dates back to 5,000 BC! (Frankincense is made from the sap of a small tree with shedding bark!) Although it has been designated as a World Heritage Site, the excavation is slow and seemingly less professional that I have seen in other ancient archeological digs. But it certainly underscores the value of water…the beauty of an oasis…and the rich history of this old country.
Moving further into the dessert and putting the cars into major four-wheel action we “skated”, slid, and jostled our way over the rolling sand dunes. Only one of nine cars got stuck and was quickly rescued by another land cruiser equipped with a heavy-duty winch. We soon left….in order!!! There were 9 cars in our caravan…and for some strange reason the drivers were insistent that they go in line and in order. It was comical watching these drivers teasing one another by trying to get “ahead” of their assigned number. Once we freed the stalled vehicle we went a few miles further until our guide…a very handsome man with a long flowing robe and beautifully tied paisley turban explained that we were in the middle of the “Empty Quarter”….a no-man’s land where there is never any water and never any life. The borders of Saudi Arabia and Oman and the other neighboring countries are rather vague in this region…and since there is really no reason to want to “claim” the area…it remains “empty”! Again, I was reminded of American’s west…of the moguls that you see on the snow slopes of Aspen…only this time, the “snow” was sand! Beautiful!
After a delicious “picnic” of fruit, boiled eggs, and sweet “cake” was enjoyed in a Bedouin camp we made our way back over the bumpy and sometimes frightening “road” just in time to make our sailing….we knew we would not be left behind as the captain’s wife, Applelonia (that’s her name!!!) was with us on the tour and she laughed that she had the key!
Seeing the deserts of Oman and experiencing the isolation of this exotic land for only a few hours makes me have great appreciation for those that have lived and worked here for centuries….including the camels, the “ships” of the desert. It was a great day to remember!
PS: Just a note to let all know that I am enjoying all the notes and cards that people sent with me on my trip. Each day as I open and read yet another, I am reminded of all the friends I have and how I can’t wait to see you all…thanks!
No comments:
Post a Comment