Egypt, Israel, Ephesus, Athens, Dubrovnik, Croatia, Italy, Monaco
As you can see from the many reports below the last few weeks have been extremely busy. I have had little time to sit and catch up on my travels…so have decided to put all into one lonnnnngggg email. Enjoy at your leisure!
April 2-4, 2007
Egypt
If you are ever at a loss for where and how to spend your birthday, I would suggest Egypt….I certainly enjoyed mine there this year.
My special day started a day early when I opened the many cards that friends had given me before I left. How nice to read so many warm greetings from so many good friends. So appreciated.
Docking at Sharm-El-Sheikh early on the morning of April 2, I was soon whisked off to the airport to catch a charter flight to Luxor. I must admit that I was a bit surprised to see the many luxury resort hotels lining the Red Sea. From the Ritz-Carlton, to the Four Seasons, the Hilton and so many others, Sharm-El-Sheikh has become THE place to vacation in this exotic part of the world. Apparently the diving and snorkeling are renown…I’ll have to return!
Arriving an hour later, I was soon standing at the entrance of the fabulous Karnak Temple. Built over a period of two millennia by generations of Pharaohs, this 62 acre site took my breath away! Of course, I have studied the soaring great Hypostyle Hall with his forest of giant pillars and columns rising some 75-80 feet above the ground….but seeing it in reality can’t be beat! As I walked down the grand “street” and listened to the guide explain how one Pharaoh after another added to the complexity of the site, I couldn’t help but feel very humble and a bit overwhelmed. That feeling continued as we visited the nearby Temple of Luxor with even more columns…more history…more wonderment! But the highlight was yet to come…a nighttime visit to the Karnak Temple for the famous sound and light show. As we slowly waked through the ruins we were surrounded by voices…by light…and the place came to life in a spine-tingling manner. Amazing!!! At the end of our stroll we sat overlooking the sacred lake where the Pharaohs and Priests had come to cleanse themselves and prepare for their daily rituals, and as the sound and light show continued it was “inturptued”..mixed, if you will, with the sounds of the Muslim call to prayer. What a contrast…what sameness. To think that after all these years, the city of Luxor is still alive with humans committed to their beliefs and hopes for the afterlife.
April 3…my birthday!...and I find myself walking in the Valley of the Kings…the vast “City of the Dead” where 62 magnificent tombs have been discovered. Here I was able to venture into these tombs…and wonder at the depth of color of the hieroglyphics carved into the desert rocks and painted with various mineral and stone dyes which have maintained their rich hues though all these years. I can only imagine how colorful the Temples must have been, for they too were once covered in these same vivid colors. I stood in awe thinking of the archeologists that first discovered these ancient tombs…of their excitement…their dedication…and their skill at unearthing and exposing this richness to the world. I looked into the eyes of the young children that were visiting the site with us wondering if they were as inspired as I was…wondering if they would be the next great “explorer” to find the next great tomb! Such a special place. But I must admit that with all this history…all these fabulous tombs…all the specialness of the place, I will never forget my visit to this valley because of one special tourist that was there with us. Standing among us was this “woman" …a tall blonde creature. She was dressed in a scant flowing chiffon dress that caught the slight warm breezes. Her large white-rimmed sunglasses reflected the brightness of the sun. She was memorable….AND she was wearing 6 to 8 inch stilettos! Bright red shiny satin numbers! Unbelievable! We were all taken aback. Several, including me, snapped photos of this inappropriately dressed tourist wondering what she was thinking. As I got closer for an even better photo opportunity she became even more intriguing…for you see, “She” was a “He”…proudly standing arm in arm with her man…an older elegant gentleman that seemed very proud of his ability to have such an “attractive” young thing on his arm! I sure hope they enjoyed their visit as much as I did! And I couldn’t help but chuckle that our next stop was at the Valley of the Queens! (The burial place for the wives and children of the Pharoahs) I assume the loving couple visited there as well!!!! After a brief stop at the Hatshepsut Temple which rises out of the desert plain in a series of brilliant white terraces, merging with the sheer limestone cliffs and surround it we took a Nile river taxi back to the hotel and were soon in flight en route to Cairo…the home of the Pyrmaids.
Our day started with a visit to the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. This vast building is beautiful in its vastness and overwhelming in the amount of objects it houses. Thirty years ago, when I first visited Cairo, I remember the museum being a very tired and dirty place with dim lighting and dusty cases filled with piles of stuff. Well, time has certainly helped this special collection. Granted, the museum still lacks the polish of other equally exciting places but the contrast between now and then is amazing. The cases have been cleaned…there is some lighting, the graphics are improved…it is a nice place. And as we saw later in the day in several years there will be a new museum presently being built in the desert along side the pyramids. Our guide, a PhD in Egyptology, explained that it is his hope that the older museum will concentrate solely on the 5,000 objects unearthed in the re-discovery of King Tutankhamen’s tomb. Regardless, it was a pleasure to spend the morning marveling at the beauty of early Egypt. How much fun it would be to spend days sketching and being inspired by the boldness and simplicity of that design!
A short ride and we soon found ourselves in Giza, the home of the pyramids and the great Sphinx. A lot has happened at this site since I was here as well. For sure, the camel drivers are still there offering a photo opportunity for $1.00 and a “ride” of two minutes for $5.00. The pyramids still rise out of the sand as they have for 5,000 years. Tourist still abound. But the Sphinx has come alive. When I first visited here the base of the Sphinx was submerged in sand. Today, that sand has been removed to reveal a complex structure and environment. And the work continues. No doubt, when I return there will be even more to ponder. I feel so privileged to have been able to, once again, stand at the base of these magnificent structures. To wonder at how they were constructed and to contemplate the meaning of life…and afterlife.
We traveled by bus through the desert that has become alive with fertile irrigation and endless farms growing all manner of produce and grain. “Cities” are springing up left and right and will in a few years be hustling and bustling as Egypt continues to prosper. We rejoined the ship in Alexandria where I unfortunately missed seeing their famous contemporary library and museum complex….a good reason to return to this exotic land!
April 5-6, 2007
Israel
I must admit that before I starting making plans for this trip I had never really thought about traveling to Israel…but now that I have been there I am so glad that I have…and, like so many other places, I would enjoy a return visit for more in depth time there.
We arrived on Holy Thursday….what a time to be in Israel…and especially this year when the holy calendar merged with five Christian sects: Protestants, Roman Catholics, Greek Orthodox, Russian Orthodox, and Coptics (????....I never really understood the fifth sect!) and the Jewish holidays as well. Our guide said that in all his years of living and working in Israel, he had never seen so many people in the city of Jerusalem…..my luck to be there! City streets were blocked off for pedestrian traffic only which only complicated the traffic of this normally busy city. Apparently additional tourist buses had been brought in to the country to handle the crowds, but this too only made for an extraordinarily crowded experience…one that I enjoyed despite the crowds.
Our arrival was apparently “historic” in that we were either the first Holland American ship…or the first ship….which I find hard to imagine…to come into the port of Ashod since 911! The local newspapers and television crews were flooding the dock requesting interviews….bands played…gifts from small children were distributed…it was a major production.
I found the countryside of Israel to be very different that I had preconceived. Much more hilly…mountainous even!...greener…and very fertile, the country was alive with an energy that could be felt from the moment we left the ship.
We were given a small map that highlighted the Palestine vs. Jewish areas of the country. I felt much uninformed about the whole situation…and this map helped to put the years of conflict into some perspective. For instance, I didn’t realize that Bethlehem was a Palestine region…complete with a high concrete wall surrounding it that reminded me of being in Berlin before THE wall came down. Like the Berlin wall, the Bethlehem wall is covered in graffiti extolling a variety of political opinions. Our Jewish guide had to leave the bus as we entered the “checkpoint Charlie” entrance into this ancient walled city. There we met our Palestinian guide who attempted to show us the Church of the Nativity. It was here that we met the first of the crowds that were to follow. There was a large aggressive and persistent group of Russian Orthodox Priests and Nuns who got to this special church (reportedly “the” spot where Baby Jesus was born!) just before we did. This is an apparently very important stop for them….many were “overcome” with emotion. They burst into song….as they pushed and shoved and made their way to “the” spot. Once there, they fell prostrate in tears, kissing and caressing the alleged holy spot of birth. I could only take so much of this madness and eventually opted to find a quiet spot in the church to await my fellow travelers who were just as persistent in seeing the spot themselves. As I enjoyed my time for people watching, this attractive woman, Joy, sat beside me and we started talking. She said something about she just couldn’t take all the crowds as she had just rejoined the trip after seven weeks. A bit more conversation and I realized that she was the critically ill patient that we had all watched being airlifted via helicopter from the ship as we approached Australia. The poor woman had almost died from internal bleeding and no doubt would not have made it without the assistance of three crew members who donated their unusual rare blood and literally saved her life. After two weeks of intensive care in Australia and another four or five weeks back in the states, Joy and her husband decided to join the ship again. My conversation with her helped to pass the time while we watched the bedlam of the religious pilgrims.
Leaving Bethlehem and joining our Jewish guide again, we eventually made our way to Jerusalem where we struggled to negotiate the buses and crowds. We went to the Mount of Olives to look back over the ancient city. We toured the Garden of Gethsemane and marveled at the thousand year old olive trees as well as the beautiful church built on the edge of the garden. We carefully walked through the Jaffa Gate and began our visit in Old Jerusalem in the Jewish quarter where we eventually made our way to the Wailing Wall. I was fascinated to see the large families of super orthodox Jews making their way to this special and most holy spot. I, of course, had seen Hassidic Jews before with their long black coats, broad-brimmed hats and curls tucked behind the men’s ears….however, rarely, if ever, had I seen the supper supper supper orthodox Jews with the large mink hats. Our guide explained that the men with gold coats and mink hats were the ultimate orthodox….so many devote people struggling to make their way to the wall. I elected to stay back and give them my space at the wall. Some of our group did indeed make their intense way to the wall and left private messages rolled and placed in the joints of the stones….very moving.
A stroll through the Muslim section of town…and then finally to the Christian section where we walked to the Via Dolorosa, passing the Stations of the Cross eventually ending up at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the alleged site of the crucifixion. I must admit that I was thankful that we were on this section of the street on Thursday and not the next day…Good Friday!....I can’t imagine what that must have been like….crowds beyond description! All in all, this long and tiring day was memorable and moving!
Good Friday was equally memorable and a bit easier. We sailed during the night docking at Haifa, site of the recent bombings. That incident was never mentioned….and just as good. We visited the beautiful Bahai Gardens before traveling inland to Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee. The Church of the Annunciation, the apparent spot where the angle told Mary that she would have a child, was closed to the public for private masses celebrating Good Friday. This very contemporary building, built in the 1960’s is on the site where countless other buildings have been built and destroyed over the years. Some of our group ventured into the Church of Mary’s well, a Greek Orthodox building. It seems that any spot of place that is mentioned in the Bible has a church built over it. We lunched at a Kibbutz guesthouse called Nof Ginossar were we visited a museum that houses the remains of a small wooden boat …over 2000 years old…discovered on the banks of the Sea of Galilee in the 1980’s. After lunch we drove to Tabgha and Capernaum where we visited the remains of the Synagogue where Jesus worshipped which rests besides the remains of St. Peter’s home. This ancient archeological site is creatively covered with a very contemporary church that is “suspended” canopy-like over this important site. This creative building was built to celebrate the visit of the pope in 2000…only the second pope to ever visit Israel! A final stop at the Mount of Beatitudes where Jesus gave his famous sermon ended a most enjoyable and memorable day and visit to this special and historic place….the Holy Land!
April 8, 2007
Kusadasi, Turkey with a visit to Ephesus
Our day, another Virtuosi day, started with a visit to the house of the Virgin Mary where Jesus’ mother is said to have lived the last years of her life. The site has been officially declared a shrine of the Roman Catholic Church as was visited by Pope Paul VI in 1967. Next we continue to the most impressive site of Ephesus for a visit to the Great Theatre dating back to the Hellenistic period. In the 1st century AD, the theatre was successfully reconstructed and expanded by the Romans until it reached a seating capacity of 25,000. This is also the place where St. Paul preached to the Ephesians. Still used for performances today the acoustics are excellent. The Marble Road which runs between the theatre and the Celsus Library is part of a sacred walkway that leads to the Hadrian Temple. A highlight of the day was to visit the recently excavated section of the ruins known as the “Terrace Houses”. These impressive homes were finely decorated with mosaics and frescoes giving a true impression of the ancient lifestyle of the wealthy. Walking through the streets of this most impressive site we were all amused at the “latrine”…a communal toilet complete with 80…count ‘em….80 marble “toilets” all aligned. Apparently this was a very popular meeting place for the rich and famous!
Our lunch was on the lawn of a very lovely small boutique hotel overlooking the harbor. We enjoyed delicious Turkish delicacies, with artist working along side us and costumed performers. The warm sea breezes made for a most memorable and enjoyable day in this very beautiful part of the world….a place that I could easily return for an extended stay!
April 9, 2007
Piraeus, Greece with a visit to Athens, the Acropolis & Cape Sounion
We began our visit to Athens with a scenic drive past the marina with tons of beautiful yachts and the usual freighters. Memories of the Olympic Games returned as we passed many of the 2004 venues. After an hour or so of scenic travel we arrived at the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion, built in the 5th century BC. The temple’s location, 180 feet above the sea on the edge of a mountain affords a 360 degree view of the blue Aegean and distant islands. Many cruise ships passing Sounion today still pay their respects to Poseidon by lowering the ensign, blasting the ship’s whistle, and pouring a libation over the side of the ship. Back in Athens we plodded our way up to the top of the Acropolis. Being Easter Monday there were scores of families and tourists that made the journey a bit frightening. Slippery and worn marble stairs and pushing crowds are not a good combination! Once at the top of the Acropolis, I was pleased to see the myriad of scaffolding indicating an enormous amount of continuing restoration. The temple, which was open and approachable when I first visited in 1975 is now cordoned off and thus more protected. We later went pass Hadrian’s Arch, indicating the border between the Greek and Roman cities in Ancient times. We enjoyed seeing the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which took 700 years to complete. It was fun to see the presidential guards at the Palace dressed in their white billowy skirts and tight hose. The day ended with a visit to the 1896 Olympic stadium….a full day in an exciting city!
April 11, 2007
Dubrovnik, Croatia
What a beautiful city! Wow! I will definitely return here. “Those who seek paradise on Earth” George Bernard Shaw once wrote, “should come to Dubrovnik”….and I agree!!! The old town is a walled city in which there are tons of small alley ways with gracious cafes and shops, apartments, museums, and churches. A walk down around the harbor with tons of colorful fishing boats and a coffee at one of the many cafes made for a special morning in a special place.
Dubrovnik was special for another reason. The ms Prinsendam, another Holland American ship was docked side by side us in the main port. It was apparently an historic day for Holland America to have two of their main ships in the same port on the same day…so much so that the CEO and President joined us for a special joint cocktail party and presentation including the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra and Children’s Choir. You have never seen so many tulips and so much champagne and canapés in all your life! Tours of both ships were offered to the opposing passenger lists and I was able to see the ship that I will be on next year for my cruise around South America and Africa…it was a great day in a great city.
April 13-14, 2007
Civitavecchia and Livorno, Italy
Although many of my fellow passengers went to Rome (about 45 minutes away!) I chose to enjoy some Etruscan Treasures by visiting Targuinia and Tuscania.
We started the day visiting the magnificent Etruscan burial grounds in Tarquinia. The Necropolis which contains thousands of tombs dating from the 6th century to the 1st century BC showcases colorful tombs which were built for wealthy couples and are splendid with colorful and detailed frescos.
Later we visited the Palazzo Vitelleschi, an excellent example of Renaissance architecture which houses the impressive Archaeological Museum which further explained the mysteries of the tombs.
A fabulous, if simple…..salad and lasagna…lunch was enjoyed overlooking Lake Bolsena in Marta. Tuscania village is located on a plateau overlooking the Marta river and is one of the oldest and most picturesque cities of Italy. This Medieval city hosts two great Paleo-Christian basilicas built in the9th century and are still well-preserved…there is a certain serenity to this charming place.
The next day, again having just been in Florence in December, I opted to visit the charming walled city of Lucca. The majestic Cathedral of San Martino, the oval shaped Piazza Anfiteatro, and the Church of San Frediano all made this walled city a very special place. The home of Puccini, this old city was alive with a huge outdoor flea market with tons of antiques and “stuff” filling every small alley and square. I enjoyed a delicious coffee and brioche while I “people watched” to my heart’s content….what a morning! After a rather harrowing ride in our new “coach” into the country side where the stone walled gravel road allowed for some two inches on each side of the bus we enjoyed yet another wonderful Italian luncheon in an old farm house famous for its limited production of wine. Simple pasta, salami, cold cuts, and biscotti with “holy wine” made for a memorable meal….but more memorable was the return bus trip. The same walls held the bus captive and as we left we were met by a “wall” of oncoming cars….tons of them. Here we were out in the middle of Tuscany in the middle of no where in this huge bus and all of a sudden we find ourselves in the midst of major grid lock! A Funeral! What a mess. The cortège of mourners did not want to back up to allow us to leave and there was no way the bus could maneuver and back up…so after many minutes of shouting and hand waving and a couple of cars backing into the low ditch, we finally made our way out and on to our next stop…the magnificent Villa Torrigiani….the summer residence of a former silk producing family. What a place! High 25-30 foot ceilings each with its own beautifully painted and preserved frescos, beautiful silk draperies and wall coverings and unbelievable gardens (the camellias are over 300 years old and are about 30 feet and pruned into beautiful conical shapes!!!)…still owned by the original family. Sadly, to maintain this beautiful home the current “prince” has resorted to opening his family home…he sold the tickets at the front gate!
I love Italy and these most recent days have only underscored why! What a beautiful place…I so look forward to returning to spend time painting all that beautiful scenery!
April 15, 2007
Monte Carlo, Monaco
With beautiful spring breezes and amazing blue skies, I enjoyed a full day of simple sight-seeing this wonderful city on the French Riviera. For the grand sum of three Euros I bought a “carte tourist” and was able to use the local bus system for the whole day. So, I simply went from one line to the next sitting on the bus and enjoying the scenery to the end of the line and back again. I eventually stopped for a few, and unsuccessful, minutes at the beautiful Casino. Wow…what a place. If Dubai reeks of new money…Monte Carlo reeks of old money! Yachts, villas, classic automobiles, and beautiful people are the words that keep coming to mind in trying to describe Monte Carlo. I just can’t imagine how there can be so much money in one small place…but it is definitely here…too bad all the shops were closed for Sunday…otherwise I might have been forced to shop!
As you can see from the many reports below the last few weeks have been extremely busy. I have had little time to sit and catch up on my travels…so have decided to put all into one lonnnnngggg email. Enjoy at your leisure!
April 2-4, 2007
Egypt
If you are ever at a loss for where and how to spend your birthday, I would suggest Egypt….I certainly enjoyed mine there this year.
My special day started a day early when I opened the many cards that friends had given me before I left. How nice to read so many warm greetings from so many good friends. So appreciated.
Docking at Sharm-El-Sheikh early on the morning of April 2, I was soon whisked off to the airport to catch a charter flight to Luxor. I must admit that I was a bit surprised to see the many luxury resort hotels lining the Red Sea. From the Ritz-Carlton, to the Four Seasons, the Hilton and so many others, Sharm-El-Sheikh has become THE place to vacation in this exotic part of the world. Apparently the diving and snorkeling are renown…I’ll have to return!
Arriving an hour later, I was soon standing at the entrance of the fabulous Karnak Temple. Built over a period of two millennia by generations of Pharaohs, this 62 acre site took my breath away! Of course, I have studied the soaring great Hypostyle Hall with his forest of giant pillars and columns rising some 75-80 feet above the ground….but seeing it in reality can’t be beat! As I walked down the grand “street” and listened to the guide explain how one Pharaoh after another added to the complexity of the site, I couldn’t help but feel very humble and a bit overwhelmed. That feeling continued as we visited the nearby Temple of Luxor with even more columns…more history…more wonderment! But the highlight was yet to come…a nighttime visit to the Karnak Temple for the famous sound and light show. As we slowly waked through the ruins we were surrounded by voices…by light…and the place came to life in a spine-tingling manner. Amazing!!! At the end of our stroll we sat overlooking the sacred lake where the Pharaohs and Priests had come to cleanse themselves and prepare for their daily rituals, and as the sound and light show continued it was “inturptued”..mixed, if you will, with the sounds of the Muslim call to prayer. What a contrast…what sameness. To think that after all these years, the city of Luxor is still alive with humans committed to their beliefs and hopes for the afterlife.
April 3…my birthday!...and I find myself walking in the Valley of the Kings…the vast “City of the Dead” where 62 magnificent tombs have been discovered. Here I was able to venture into these tombs…and wonder at the depth of color of the hieroglyphics carved into the desert rocks and painted with various mineral and stone dyes which have maintained their rich hues though all these years. I can only imagine how colorful the Temples must have been, for they too were once covered in these same vivid colors. I stood in awe thinking of the archeologists that first discovered these ancient tombs…of their excitement…their dedication…and their skill at unearthing and exposing this richness to the world. I looked into the eyes of the young children that were visiting the site with us wondering if they were as inspired as I was…wondering if they would be the next great “explorer” to find the next great tomb! Such a special place. But I must admit that with all this history…all these fabulous tombs…all the specialness of the place, I will never forget my visit to this valley because of one special tourist that was there with us. Standing among us was this “woman" …a tall blonde creature. She was dressed in a scant flowing chiffon dress that caught the slight warm breezes. Her large white-rimmed sunglasses reflected the brightness of the sun. She was memorable….AND she was wearing 6 to 8 inch stilettos! Bright red shiny satin numbers! Unbelievable! We were all taken aback. Several, including me, snapped photos of this inappropriately dressed tourist wondering what she was thinking. As I got closer for an even better photo opportunity she became even more intriguing…for you see, “She” was a “He”…proudly standing arm in arm with her man…an older elegant gentleman that seemed very proud of his ability to have such an “attractive” young thing on his arm! I sure hope they enjoyed their visit as much as I did! And I couldn’t help but chuckle that our next stop was at the Valley of the Queens! (The burial place for the wives and children of the Pharoahs) I assume the loving couple visited there as well!!!! After a brief stop at the Hatshepsut Temple which rises out of the desert plain in a series of brilliant white terraces, merging with the sheer limestone cliffs and surround it we took a Nile river taxi back to the hotel and were soon in flight en route to Cairo…the home of the Pyrmaids.
Our day started with a visit to the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. This vast building is beautiful in its vastness and overwhelming in the amount of objects it houses. Thirty years ago, when I first visited Cairo, I remember the museum being a very tired and dirty place with dim lighting and dusty cases filled with piles of stuff. Well, time has certainly helped this special collection. Granted, the museum still lacks the polish of other equally exciting places but the contrast between now and then is amazing. The cases have been cleaned…there is some lighting, the graphics are improved…it is a nice place. And as we saw later in the day in several years there will be a new museum presently being built in the desert along side the pyramids. Our guide, a PhD in Egyptology, explained that it is his hope that the older museum will concentrate solely on the 5,000 objects unearthed in the re-discovery of King Tutankhamen’s tomb. Regardless, it was a pleasure to spend the morning marveling at the beauty of early Egypt. How much fun it would be to spend days sketching and being inspired by the boldness and simplicity of that design!
A short ride and we soon found ourselves in Giza, the home of the pyramids and the great Sphinx. A lot has happened at this site since I was here as well. For sure, the camel drivers are still there offering a photo opportunity for $1.00 and a “ride” of two minutes for $5.00. The pyramids still rise out of the sand as they have for 5,000 years. Tourist still abound. But the Sphinx has come alive. When I first visited here the base of the Sphinx was submerged in sand. Today, that sand has been removed to reveal a complex structure and environment. And the work continues. No doubt, when I return there will be even more to ponder. I feel so privileged to have been able to, once again, stand at the base of these magnificent structures. To wonder at how they were constructed and to contemplate the meaning of life…and afterlife.
We traveled by bus through the desert that has become alive with fertile irrigation and endless farms growing all manner of produce and grain. “Cities” are springing up left and right and will in a few years be hustling and bustling as Egypt continues to prosper. We rejoined the ship in Alexandria where I unfortunately missed seeing their famous contemporary library and museum complex….a good reason to return to this exotic land!
April 5-6, 2007
Israel
I must admit that before I starting making plans for this trip I had never really thought about traveling to Israel…but now that I have been there I am so glad that I have…and, like so many other places, I would enjoy a return visit for more in depth time there.
We arrived on Holy Thursday….what a time to be in Israel…and especially this year when the holy calendar merged with five Christian sects: Protestants, Roman Catholics, Greek Orthodox, Russian Orthodox, and Coptics (????....I never really understood the fifth sect!) and the Jewish holidays as well. Our guide said that in all his years of living and working in Israel, he had never seen so many people in the city of Jerusalem…..my luck to be there! City streets were blocked off for pedestrian traffic only which only complicated the traffic of this normally busy city. Apparently additional tourist buses had been brought in to the country to handle the crowds, but this too only made for an extraordinarily crowded experience…one that I enjoyed despite the crowds.
Our arrival was apparently “historic” in that we were either the first Holland American ship…or the first ship….which I find hard to imagine…to come into the port of Ashod since 911! The local newspapers and television crews were flooding the dock requesting interviews….bands played…gifts from small children were distributed…it was a major production.
I found the countryside of Israel to be very different that I had preconceived. Much more hilly…mountainous even!...greener…and very fertile, the country was alive with an energy that could be felt from the moment we left the ship.
We were given a small map that highlighted the Palestine vs. Jewish areas of the country. I felt much uninformed about the whole situation…and this map helped to put the years of conflict into some perspective. For instance, I didn’t realize that Bethlehem was a Palestine region…complete with a high concrete wall surrounding it that reminded me of being in Berlin before THE wall came down. Like the Berlin wall, the Bethlehem wall is covered in graffiti extolling a variety of political opinions. Our Jewish guide had to leave the bus as we entered the “checkpoint Charlie” entrance into this ancient walled city. There we met our Palestinian guide who attempted to show us the Church of the Nativity. It was here that we met the first of the crowds that were to follow. There was a large aggressive and persistent group of Russian Orthodox Priests and Nuns who got to this special church (reportedly “the” spot where Baby Jesus was born!) just before we did. This is an apparently very important stop for them….many were “overcome” with emotion. They burst into song….as they pushed and shoved and made their way to “the” spot. Once there, they fell prostrate in tears, kissing and caressing the alleged holy spot of birth. I could only take so much of this madness and eventually opted to find a quiet spot in the church to await my fellow travelers who were just as persistent in seeing the spot themselves. As I enjoyed my time for people watching, this attractive woman, Joy, sat beside me and we started talking. She said something about she just couldn’t take all the crowds as she had just rejoined the trip after seven weeks. A bit more conversation and I realized that she was the critically ill patient that we had all watched being airlifted via helicopter from the ship as we approached Australia. The poor woman had almost died from internal bleeding and no doubt would not have made it without the assistance of three crew members who donated their unusual rare blood and literally saved her life. After two weeks of intensive care in Australia and another four or five weeks back in the states, Joy and her husband decided to join the ship again. My conversation with her helped to pass the time while we watched the bedlam of the religious pilgrims.
Leaving Bethlehem and joining our Jewish guide again, we eventually made our way to Jerusalem where we struggled to negotiate the buses and crowds. We went to the Mount of Olives to look back over the ancient city. We toured the Garden of Gethsemane and marveled at the thousand year old olive trees as well as the beautiful church built on the edge of the garden. We carefully walked through the Jaffa Gate and began our visit in Old Jerusalem in the Jewish quarter where we eventually made our way to the Wailing Wall. I was fascinated to see the large families of super orthodox Jews making their way to this special and most holy spot. I, of course, had seen Hassidic Jews before with their long black coats, broad-brimmed hats and curls tucked behind the men’s ears….however, rarely, if ever, had I seen the supper supper supper orthodox Jews with the large mink hats. Our guide explained that the men with gold coats and mink hats were the ultimate orthodox….so many devote people struggling to make their way to the wall. I elected to stay back and give them my space at the wall. Some of our group did indeed make their intense way to the wall and left private messages rolled and placed in the joints of the stones….very moving.
A stroll through the Muslim section of town…and then finally to the Christian section where we walked to the Via Dolorosa, passing the Stations of the Cross eventually ending up at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the alleged site of the crucifixion. I must admit that I was thankful that we were on this section of the street on Thursday and not the next day…Good Friday!....I can’t imagine what that must have been like….crowds beyond description! All in all, this long and tiring day was memorable and moving!
Good Friday was equally memorable and a bit easier. We sailed during the night docking at Haifa, site of the recent bombings. That incident was never mentioned….and just as good. We visited the beautiful Bahai Gardens before traveling inland to Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee. The Church of the Annunciation, the apparent spot where the angle told Mary that she would have a child, was closed to the public for private masses celebrating Good Friday. This very contemporary building, built in the 1960’s is on the site where countless other buildings have been built and destroyed over the years. Some of our group ventured into the Church of Mary’s well, a Greek Orthodox building. It seems that any spot of place that is mentioned in the Bible has a church built over it. We lunched at a Kibbutz guesthouse called Nof Ginossar were we visited a museum that houses the remains of a small wooden boat …over 2000 years old…discovered on the banks of the Sea of Galilee in the 1980’s. After lunch we drove to Tabgha and Capernaum where we visited the remains of the Synagogue where Jesus worshipped which rests besides the remains of St. Peter’s home. This ancient archeological site is creatively covered with a very contemporary church that is “suspended” canopy-like over this important site. This creative building was built to celebrate the visit of the pope in 2000…only the second pope to ever visit Israel! A final stop at the Mount of Beatitudes where Jesus gave his famous sermon ended a most enjoyable and memorable day and visit to this special and historic place….the Holy Land!
April 8, 2007
Kusadasi, Turkey with a visit to Ephesus
Our day, another Virtuosi day, started with a visit to the house of the Virgin Mary where Jesus’ mother is said to have lived the last years of her life. The site has been officially declared a shrine of the Roman Catholic Church as was visited by Pope Paul VI in 1967. Next we continue to the most impressive site of Ephesus for a visit to the Great Theatre dating back to the Hellenistic period. In the 1st century AD, the theatre was successfully reconstructed and expanded by the Romans until it reached a seating capacity of 25,000. This is also the place where St. Paul preached to the Ephesians. Still used for performances today the acoustics are excellent. The Marble Road which runs between the theatre and the Celsus Library is part of a sacred walkway that leads to the Hadrian Temple. A highlight of the day was to visit the recently excavated section of the ruins known as the “Terrace Houses”. These impressive homes were finely decorated with mosaics and frescoes giving a true impression of the ancient lifestyle of the wealthy. Walking through the streets of this most impressive site we were all amused at the “latrine”…a communal toilet complete with 80…count ‘em….80 marble “toilets” all aligned. Apparently this was a very popular meeting place for the rich and famous!
Our lunch was on the lawn of a very lovely small boutique hotel overlooking the harbor. We enjoyed delicious Turkish delicacies, with artist working along side us and costumed performers. The warm sea breezes made for a most memorable and enjoyable day in this very beautiful part of the world….a place that I could easily return for an extended stay!
April 9, 2007
Piraeus, Greece with a visit to Athens, the Acropolis & Cape Sounion
We began our visit to Athens with a scenic drive past the marina with tons of beautiful yachts and the usual freighters. Memories of the Olympic Games returned as we passed many of the 2004 venues. After an hour or so of scenic travel we arrived at the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion, built in the 5th century BC. The temple’s location, 180 feet above the sea on the edge of a mountain affords a 360 degree view of the blue Aegean and distant islands. Many cruise ships passing Sounion today still pay their respects to Poseidon by lowering the ensign, blasting the ship’s whistle, and pouring a libation over the side of the ship. Back in Athens we plodded our way up to the top of the Acropolis. Being Easter Monday there were scores of families and tourists that made the journey a bit frightening. Slippery and worn marble stairs and pushing crowds are not a good combination! Once at the top of the Acropolis, I was pleased to see the myriad of scaffolding indicating an enormous amount of continuing restoration. The temple, which was open and approachable when I first visited in 1975 is now cordoned off and thus more protected. We later went pass Hadrian’s Arch, indicating the border between the Greek and Roman cities in Ancient times. We enjoyed seeing the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which took 700 years to complete. It was fun to see the presidential guards at the Palace dressed in their white billowy skirts and tight hose. The day ended with a visit to the 1896 Olympic stadium….a full day in an exciting city!
April 11, 2007
Dubrovnik, Croatia
What a beautiful city! Wow! I will definitely return here. “Those who seek paradise on Earth” George Bernard Shaw once wrote, “should come to Dubrovnik”….and I agree!!! The old town is a walled city in which there are tons of small alley ways with gracious cafes and shops, apartments, museums, and churches. A walk down around the harbor with tons of colorful fishing boats and a coffee at one of the many cafes made for a special morning in a special place.
Dubrovnik was special for another reason. The ms Prinsendam, another Holland American ship was docked side by side us in the main port. It was apparently an historic day for Holland America to have two of their main ships in the same port on the same day…so much so that the CEO and President joined us for a special joint cocktail party and presentation including the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra and Children’s Choir. You have never seen so many tulips and so much champagne and canapés in all your life! Tours of both ships were offered to the opposing passenger lists and I was able to see the ship that I will be on next year for my cruise around South America and Africa…it was a great day in a great city.
April 13-14, 2007
Civitavecchia and Livorno, Italy
Although many of my fellow passengers went to Rome (about 45 minutes away!) I chose to enjoy some Etruscan Treasures by visiting Targuinia and Tuscania.
We started the day visiting the magnificent Etruscan burial grounds in Tarquinia. The Necropolis which contains thousands of tombs dating from the 6th century to the 1st century BC showcases colorful tombs which were built for wealthy couples and are splendid with colorful and detailed frescos.
Later we visited the Palazzo Vitelleschi, an excellent example of Renaissance architecture which houses the impressive Archaeological Museum which further explained the mysteries of the tombs.
A fabulous, if simple…..salad and lasagna…lunch was enjoyed overlooking Lake Bolsena in Marta. Tuscania village is located on a plateau overlooking the Marta river and is one of the oldest and most picturesque cities of Italy. This Medieval city hosts two great Paleo-Christian basilicas built in the9th century and are still well-preserved…there is a certain serenity to this charming place.
The next day, again having just been in Florence in December, I opted to visit the charming walled city of Lucca. The majestic Cathedral of San Martino, the oval shaped Piazza Anfiteatro, and the Church of San Frediano all made this walled city a very special place. The home of Puccini, this old city was alive with a huge outdoor flea market with tons of antiques and “stuff” filling every small alley and square. I enjoyed a delicious coffee and brioche while I “people watched” to my heart’s content….what a morning! After a rather harrowing ride in our new “coach” into the country side where the stone walled gravel road allowed for some two inches on each side of the bus we enjoyed yet another wonderful Italian luncheon in an old farm house famous for its limited production of wine. Simple pasta, salami, cold cuts, and biscotti with “holy wine” made for a memorable meal….but more memorable was the return bus trip. The same walls held the bus captive and as we left we were met by a “wall” of oncoming cars….tons of them. Here we were out in the middle of Tuscany in the middle of no where in this huge bus and all of a sudden we find ourselves in the midst of major grid lock! A Funeral! What a mess. The cortège of mourners did not want to back up to allow us to leave and there was no way the bus could maneuver and back up…so after many minutes of shouting and hand waving and a couple of cars backing into the low ditch, we finally made our way out and on to our next stop…the magnificent Villa Torrigiani….the summer residence of a former silk producing family. What a place! High 25-30 foot ceilings each with its own beautifully painted and preserved frescos, beautiful silk draperies and wall coverings and unbelievable gardens (the camellias are over 300 years old and are about 30 feet and pruned into beautiful conical shapes!!!)…still owned by the original family. Sadly, to maintain this beautiful home the current “prince” has resorted to opening his family home…he sold the tickets at the front gate!
I love Italy and these most recent days have only underscored why! What a beautiful place…I so look forward to returning to spend time painting all that beautiful scenery!
April 15, 2007
Monte Carlo, Monaco
With beautiful spring breezes and amazing blue skies, I enjoyed a full day of simple sight-seeing this wonderful city on the French Riviera. For the grand sum of three Euros I bought a “carte tourist” and was able to use the local bus system for the whole day. So, I simply went from one line to the next sitting on the bus and enjoying the scenery to the end of the line and back again. I eventually stopped for a few, and unsuccessful, minutes at the beautiful Casino. Wow…what a place. If Dubai reeks of new money…Monte Carlo reeks of old money! Yachts, villas, classic automobiles, and beautiful people are the words that keep coming to mind in trying to describe Monte Carlo. I just can’t imagine how there can be so much money in one small place…but it is definitely here…too bad all the shops were closed for Sunday…otherwise I might have been forced to shop!
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