Thursday, November 1, 2007


Funchal, Maderia Portugal



April 19, 2007

We were scheduled to go to Casablanca, Morocco on April 18….however, due to recent terrorist attacks and State Department warnings the Captain decided to abort our plans and sail to Gibraltar instead. Luckily I was in Casablanca more than 30 years ago…the first place I ever traveled in the world on a memorable trip with my friend Hugh Latta…so although I was disappointed I was not completely unhappy…after all, I had never been to Gibraltar and seen the famous apes…so that would be fun! Well…the best laid plans…..we arrived in Gibraltar around 11 pm after leaving Malaga….we got to within 20 feet of the dock. The seas were so rough we pulled away some 50 to 100 feet waiting for some 45 minutes or so hoping the swells would relax…no such luck. Another move out another 100 or so feet for a half hour or so…no avail…we simply were not able to dock in Gibraltar and tendering was certainly out of the question. So, we set sail for Funchal, Maderia, Portugal! So much for those famous apes! (Travel mates laughed that they had been to Gibraltar three times and have still not been there! It is obviously a rough place to dock!)

After a day at sea we finally arrived in Funchal, Maderia…a small volcanic island in the Atlantic that is a Portuguese protectorate. Nearly 500 years old, Madeira capital is one of Europe’s prettiest ports. Docking, I was fascinated to look out and see the high rugged but green hillsides covered with low-rise white stucco buildings each with their terra cotta roofs. The “unity” of this design feature added a special charm to this special place.

We visited the picturesque fishing village of Camara de Lobos, made famous by Winston Churchill who loved paint from the terrace of a small restaurant overlooking the colorful harbor. We continued on to Cabo Girao, the second highest sea cliff in the world (the highest is apparently in Taiwan!) Here as we gasped at the sheer drop-off of the cliff and we purchased hard candies made from eucalyptus and fennel (funcho…from which the name Funchal is derived!) from a smiling toothless peddler. We marveled at the thousands of small terrace gardens that cascade down every possible hill and valley abounding with luscious bananas and grape vines…after all Maderia is probably best known for its delicious wine by the same name.

A take-your-breath-away cable car ride brought us to the top of the city to a small village called Monte, some 2,000 feet above sea level. The highlight of this adventure was the “sledge” ride down the paved roads to another village of Livramento. I sat, along with one other person, in a large wicker basket that was mounted on sled-type wooden runners. Two men dressed in white with black-rimmed straw hats ran along side or rode on the back runners and “controlled” the sledges as we flew down the steep roads dodging traffic and pedestrians alike. This thrilling ride would have been memorable enough, but the fact that it was pouring down rain only added to the overall excitement. I got soaked to the bone. I can honestly say that I have never experienced anything like it!

My memorable day in Madeira ended with a late lunch at the famous Reid Palace Hotel. This five-star hotel overlooking the entire harbor provided a beautiful lunch that featured multi courses of delicious food of the area. It was a perfect way to end a perfect day in a perfect setting!

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